How to Become a Metal Stamping Press Operator

Factory work can be a thankless job most of the time without much of an opportunity for advancement, but the ability to become a metal stamping press operator can lead to bigger and better things.

In the metal stamping industry every employee looks for a more lucrative position in terms of pay, and to become a metal stamping press operator can provide an excellent learning opportunity that can result in promotion to a supervisory position or one that is at least less physically demanding. As far as the labor force in a factory goes tool and die makers usually make the most money, and many have started their careers as a metal stamping press operator.

To become a metal stamping press operator an unskilled person usually accepts a position as a laborer in a metal stamping plant. After a period of "paying your dues" an individual may be offered as position as a press tender, which encompasses any tasks that are necessary to keep a stamping press functioning at full capacity. These tasks may include bringing new steel to a metal stamping press operator or taking away the finished product.

After a period as a tender, the next step to become a metal stamping press operator is to assume the position of a "catcher" - the person that catches the pieces as they come from the stamping press and has the responsibility to check that there are no quality issues. The reason that time must be spent in each of these positions before an individual can become a metal stamping press operator is so that they can absorb the nuances of the job by watching and learning a skilled metal stamping press operator in action.

Eventually an individual will be promoted to become a metal stamping press operator and will initially be assigned a more simple stamping job on a press with a force of smaller size and tonage. Over time and with hundreds of thousands of repetitions, a metal stamping press operator will learn and rise in the factory heirarchy until they are considered competent enough to be assigned stamping jobs on 300 to 1,500 ton presses with a subsequent increase in salary based on experience and production.

A responsible employer will only allow an employee to become a metal stamping press operator after significant training has been completed. To become a sheet metal stamping press operator is not a tremendously difficult task, but when the job is performed incorrectly it can be an extremely dangerous situation for the metal stamping press operator as well as any other employee in the immediate vicinity.

How to Unplug A Shower Drain If You Have No Auger

Shower drain easily become clogged with a combination of hair, soap scum and whatever else sloughs off human bodies into the drain.

Do it yourself or with a friend. A neighbor and I recently unplugged his shower by this method as no auger was immediately available. It can be done by one, but a team of two ensures quicker success.

Remove the strainer over the drain. This is usually held in place with two screws. If there are none, use a pair of pliers, preferably long nosed ones. Catch the holes in the drain and lift it aside.

Fill your shower with a couple of inches of water. Now using a good plunger, plunge vigorously. This may work. It didn't work for us, so we moved on to step four.

Get your garden hose and jam in into the drain as far as easily possible. Wad up a small towel and hold tightly around the hole and against the drain opening. Your helper should now quickly turn on the hose with full force. He/she can turn it on and off several times and hopefully the clog will move on down the line.

Clean up and you are finished. I hope this works for you. If not, you may have to borrow, rent, or buy an auger. You will need a drain auger. You will need to push the auger into the drain until it can reach and catch the clog. You can then pull it out, whole or in parts.

Every once in a while you find yourself having to clean the bath tub drain because the water will no longer go down. You certainly don't look forward to it, but you know that if you don't unclog it, your next shower might feel more like a wading pool. Here are some tips on how to clean the bath tub drain:

First unscrew the drain cover to see what is lurking beneath. Most often the culprit of the clog in the bath tub drain is hair that's wrapped around the metal piece spanning the width of the drain.

Use the tweezers to pull out the hair that is stuck on the metal piece in bath tub drain. It might take some time to pull it out, and it WILL be slimy, but get as much of the hair out as possible.

Put on latex gloves and pull out any remaining hair that you cannot get out of the bath tub drain with the tweezers.

Still wearing the latex gloves, use your fingers to scrape the sides of the drain to loosen any mold or slime that is deposited onto the side wall of the bath tub drain.

Use the comet to clean the bath tub drain (as far as you can reach) and also clean the outside of the drain while you're there. Rinse the drain thoroughly with hot water.

Pour 1/5 bottle of the Drano Max Gel down the shower drain. For tougher clogs, pour 1/2 bottle. Let the Drano sit for 15 minutes (30 minutes for tough clogs), then flush it with hot water. Repeat this step if the bath tub drain is still clogged.

Finding the Right Metal Stamping Manufacturer

Sheet metal stamping products could range from the simplest to the most complex mechanical parts that are used in industries like automotive, house ware, aircraft, medical and communications. Such industries are constantly looking for manufacturers that will provide them the best metal products at affordable prices.

For a manufacturer, metalworking is by far the most effective and economical method to produce different types of metals. The process involves cutting and forming sheet metal into shapes and sizes based on a client's design and specifications. They make use of special tools such as stamping dyes, as well as the most innovative technologies that not only speed up the rate of production but also produce high quality products at affordable cost.

Sheet metal stamping is used to produce a wide variety of items like automobile panels, rain gutters, restaurant equipment, road signs and heating ducts, fabricating. As a result, installing and maintaining these items can be a hazardous job.

Sheet metal stamping workers are subject to frequent cuts, scrapes, burns and falls from scaffoldings or ladders. Many times, the sheet metal stamping production process itself requires repetitive heavy lifting, bending and squatting, putting workers at risk for back, neck and muscle injuries. Knowing the proper safety procedures can help keep sheet metal stamping production workers safe on the job.

Safety Equipment is everyone's Friend

While safety equipment may feel like a cumbersome, frivolous waste of time, safety gear is designed to prevent and limit injury should an accident occur. Accidents can happen in a matter of seconds.

During an accident, safety equipment must already be in place in order to be effective. Hard hats, gloves and safety glasses left in a truck or tool box are useless during an accident.

Sheet metal stamping workers can be subject to flying debris and tiny shards of metal shavings, cuts from sharp metal edges, crushing injuries from presses and other sheet metal stamping forming equipment, and burns from metal heated during production, installation or repair.

Many of these injuries have the potential to be life threatening unless safety equipment is worn when working around sheet metal stamping.

Preventing Back Injury in sheet metal stamping Workers

Back and neck injuries are one the most common causes of Worker's Compensation claims. A serious muscle injury can keep a sheet metal stamping worker from the job for months while muscles, tendons, tissue and bones heal.

Learning to lift with the large, strong muscles of the legs instead of the muscles of the neck, back and arms is crucial to preventing back injuries. A 100 pound woman can easily pick up a 150 pound weight with proper body mechanics.

Heavy lifting requires lowering the body's center of gravity. Bending at the knees improves balance and provides a stable, lowered center. Lifting is only begun after the neck and back muscles are relaxed. Upper body muscles should not bear the weight of the object being moved; they should only be used to hold the object near the body.

If at all possible, sheet metal stamping workers should plan and position their workstations and materials so that heavy items can be lifted from waist high in a standing position. Feet should be placed shoulder width apart, directly under the hips.

The body can also be positioned to take advantage pivoting movements that can reduce the chance of falls or improper body alignment during transfers of heavy objects. These lifting techniques can reduce muscle strain and prevent neck and back injuries in sheet metal stamping workers.

The best custom manufacturers spend enough time with their prospective clients discussing every aspect of the request, from the desired shape and size, as well as the end products' look and finish. They can also provide expert design and engineering services, as well as recommend the use of special materials and methods to further enhance the final product.

A reliable metalworking company conducts professional engineering with the help of a team of fully-trained personnel. The company should also be performing a series of quality checks and inspection procedures to ensure that every single product that leaves the production is of high quality and is able to meet the requirements of their clients. Doing a background check is the best way to determine which of the manufacturers can give you the best service when it comes to custom metal stamping.

Installing a Shower Pan Drain

Introduction

Adding a new shower pan is one way one can update a bathroom. Part of the shower pan installation is to install a new shower drain. There are different types of shower drains available. Choose the one that will work well for the type of shower pan material that you'll use. This example will show how to install a tile shower drain, which comes in either PVC (polyvinyl chloride) for PVC drainpipe or ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) for ABS drainpipe. They both come with stainless steel, polished brass or white plastic strainers.

Materials and Tools

For the shower drain installation, you need a drain unit, PVC or ABS solvent cement, pea gravel, a screwdriver, and silicone caulk or sealer. You also need a premeasured pan liner and a sharp blade. The tile shower drain unit comes with a drain base, a reversible clamping ring, collar bolts, an adjustable drain barrel and a strainer. When choosing the type of solvent cement to use, make sure it is compatible with the type of drainpipe. Use PVC solvent cement for a drainpipe made of PVC, or choose ABS cement solvent to use for an ABS drainpipe.

Installation

Mount the tile shower drain on top of the subfloor. Connect the drain base to the drainpipe by applying cement solvent inside the drain base before sliding it down the drainpipe. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the upper surface, which will seal the underside of the pan liner and the drain base surface.

Place the clamping ringbolts that came with the drain unit and screw them onto the drain base. Lay down the pan liner on the subfloor and over the drain body. Perform this step before the silicone caulk dries. Slit the top of each ringbolt with an "X" in order for the pan liner to slide over the bolts. Then, press the pan liner firmly into place.

Cut out the pan-liner material to the dimension of the drain hole and drain base. Attach the clamping ring over the bolts and then turn the ring counter-clockwise to lock it into place. Make sure to tighten the bolts so that they are snug. Check also that the weep holes are clear of any silicone material or pan liner material. Tighten the clamping ring to the drain base.

Apply some pea gravel over the weep holes. Connect the adjustable shower drain barrel to the clamping ring by turning the drain barrel following the inner thread pattern of the clamping ring. Adjust the height based on the floor's height. Finally, place the strainer on top of the drain barrel.

Precision Sheet Metal Stamping Fabrication

Metal stamping fabrication is a process of producing a metal stamping component by modifying a raw piece of material in a machine shop. These materials are processed on different temperatures and depending on the range of temperatures; the process is classified as cold, warm and hot.

Precision sheet metal stamping fabrication describes various different processes that form sheet metal into finished products. Objects that are fabricated and used for machinery and other instruments are among the daily used objects like paper clips, computers, bolts, nails, automotive parts and many more.

There are various factors like rate of production, desired geometry, and other physical requirements that influence the fabrication process. The benefits of the metal fabrication process are far and wide because it is used by all industries.

Every precision sheet metal stamping fabrication process undergoes three primary processes that include forming, cutting and finishing. Forming is a process that alters the form of the flat metal sheet. Forming can be done using various different processes like annealing, bending, cold rolling, drawing, forging, mechanical working, press forming, roll forming and welding.

After forming, a metal sheet is cut to alter the shape by removing some unwanted material. The cutting process includes stamping, shearing, sawing, drilling, blanking and punching. Finally, the last stage is the finishing process. In this process, the shaped metal sheet is given a finished and soft surface using sanding and vibration techniques.

Aesthetic considerations like painting and visual design applications are also few of the method applied to give the finishing touch. Some of the latest techniques in metal fabrication involve laser cutting, electro discharge machining, water jet cutting and wire cut EDM. In some cases CNC machining is also used.

There are various products that are created during precision sheet metal fabrication. The most common objects produced are metal cabinets, enclosures, ventilation shafts, hoods, exhaust systems, tanks and prototypes. Metal fabrication is also used by various other industries for food dispensing, food storage, communications, automotive, computer, medical, electronics, aerospace, telecommunication, pharmaceutical, residential and construction.

Some of the types of Precision sheet metal stamping Fabrication include processes like Annealing (heating), Bending (straining), Cold forming, Cold rolling (shaping sheet metal using rollers), Drawing (material is forced into a die with a punch to form a cup-like shape), Forging (hammering or pressing), Rolling (reducing thickness of the material), Extrusion (producing cylindrical bars or hollow tubes by forcing round billets through one or more dies) and Spinning (forms axially symmetrical shapes).

How to Fix a Smelly Shower Drain and Remove a Shower Drain Cover

Bad shower drain odors can range from mild to knock you down rotten smelling. Drain odor is usually caused by clogs in plumbing that is evidenced by a slow drain or by a buildup of soap scum in the drain. With a little bit of maintenance, drain smell can be eliminated. Preventative routine drain maintenance will keep your drain fresh.

Clean the shower with a sponge and shower cleaner to remove soap scum, mildew and dirt. Sometimes the smell is not really coming from the drain but is rather coming from a dirty shower surface.

Remove hair and debris from the grate over the shower drain, if one is installed. Hair and debris stops the shower from draining properly and produces a smell on its own.

Unclog the shower drain if it is draining slowly. Slow drains mean there is a buildup of debris in the pipes. This buildup causes a bad odor. Use a plunger to unclog the drain. If a plunger does not work pour a drain cleaning solution down the drain. Drain cleaning solutions can be purchased at building supply and plumbing supply stores. If neither the plunger or the drain cleaning solution is effective, use an auger to clear the blockage. If you do not know how to use an auger or if the auger does not clear the drain, call a plumber for assistance.

Eliminate odor with baking soda. Pour 1/4 cup of baking soda down the shower drain followed by a gallon of hot water, to absorb and remove odors and freshen the smell of the drain. Make it a regular weekly routine to use baking soda in order to freshen drains and prevent drain odor from building up in the first place.

Call a plumber if none of these methods work to eliminate bad shower drain odor. Odor that persists after using these remedies may be caused by serious plumbing problems.

Removing a shower drain cover is useful for replacing the cover, cleaning out the shower drain, troubleshooting a clogged drain or ensuring the safe use of liquid drain cleaners. Removing the cover is different from removing the actual drain. Removing the entire drain fixture may require a plumber, while cover removal can usually be done by the homeowner or resident.

Dry the area on and around the shower drain cover. This will ensure that the screwdriver will not slide around during use.

Remove the drain stopper if there is one. Do so by pulling the stopper up until it disconnects from the trip lever. Shower-only setups will not have a drain stopper.

Locate a screw in the center of the cover. Unscrew the screw using the Phillips head screwdriver. Not all shower drains will have this screw.

Use the flat-head screwdriver to pop the drain cover out of the drain fixture. Place the tip of the screwdriver along the edge of the drain cover, not outside the actual drain fixture.

Apply a small amount of force on the screwdriver while prying up the shower drain cover. Silicone or another sealant may have been used to seal the drain fixture. If so, work the screwdriver around the outside of the drain cover itself to loosen the seal. Continue to pry around the edge of the drain cover until it pops out.

The Process of Precision Metal Stamping

Precision metal stamping is the process of making 3-dimensional metal parts, lettering and other embossing. This is a kind of sheet metal stamping used mostly for decorative purposes. It is similar to normal metal stamping, which is the process of molding metal into different shapes and sizes.

The products obtained through metal stamping are used as components for some larger products in other industries. The most common metals and alloys used for precision metal stamping are copper, aluminum, brass, beryllium, nickel, nickel silver, steel, stainless steel, phos bronze and titanium.

Precision metal stamping is applicable to many industries like computers, electronics, electrical, dental, aerospace, instrumentation, military specs, defense, telecom and automotives. There are many methods in precision metal stamping for producing stamped prototypes. Blank creation is one such method. Blank creation involves the creation of a flat state of the component. The flat blank sheet is then used to make the part's features. In blank creation, there are many processes like nibbling, chemical etching, water jet cutting, wire EDM, punch and die.

There are also many methods for producing prototypes by precision stamping. The type of method used depends on the size and intricacy of the parts to be produced as well as the number of prototypes. Single part transfer is one such method in which single parts are transferred from one station to the next for blanking and metal forming.

The main advantage with this method is the cost effectiveness. One single, standard system can be maintained for designing, manufacturing and holding tooling inserts. However, this system is slow because it needs individual prototype parts. The other method is the progressive strip prototyping which involves the automatic transfer of the metal from one stage to the next.

Precision metal stamping can be done at very high speeds and even up to 1,200 strokes per minute. Precision metal stamping gives several advantages like the ability to use any metal or alloy and creation of components with very precise dimensions and shapes. Plating can also be very precise which is helpful when working with precious metals like gold and palladium.

An Introduction to Metal Stamping Machines

Metal stamping machines are used to give the exact shape and parameters to the metal products. When a metal sheet is inserted into the metal stamping machine, it can be molded into the exact shape.

The kind of shape that has to be given to the product should be pre-determined before putting the metal in the stamping machines. The customer provides a sample or a diagram of the product that has to be created. Sometimes, the customer may not even know what the final product will look like. He will come with a vague idea of what purpose the product would serve. Most metal stamping producers have designing capabilities to assist the customer with what the actual design and requirements of the product should be.

Metal stamping machines are of many kinds. They can range between the simplest manual presses to highly computerized progressive die processors that involve complicated parts. Depending on the kind of machine, the features of the product can be changed according to the customer's requirements. The more advanced the machine, the process also becomes much faster and more efficient.

Metal stamping machines can perform a variety of functions like fine blanking, wireforming, deep drawing, fourslide and multislide stamping. Fine blanking involves the shearing of the material for producing finished parts without secondary operations.

Wireforming is the stamping of metal wire into different shapes such as springs, clips, rings and pins. Deep drawing is a cold forming process in which a flat blank of sheet metal is formed by the action of a punch forcing the metal into a die cavity. Four slide and multislide stamping is for horizontal die applications from multiple directions, done either successively or simultaneously.

There are a variety of metal stamping machines from the simplest manual presses to computerized progressive die processors that are highly advanced and involve complicated parts. Depending on the type of machine, the features of a product can be changed based on the customer’s requirements. The more advanced a metal stamping machine, the faster and more efficient the processes.

Metal stamping machine functions

A metal stamping machine can perform a variety of functions that includes fine blanking, wire forming, deep drawing, four-slide and multi-slide stamping.

Fine blanking – Shears the material to produce finished parts without secondary operations.

Wire forming – The process of stamping metal wire into different shapes such as rings, pins, clips and springs.

Deep drawing – A cold forming process using a flat, blank sheet of metal that is formed by punch forcing the metal into a die cavity.

Four-slide and multi-slide stamping – This is for horizontal die applications from multiple directions, done successively or simultaneously.

Most sheet metal stamping companies also offer supplementary services like designing, material sourcing, prototyping, short run manufacturing, upgrading or re-designing, assembly services and specialty packaging.

How to Plumb a Shower Drain

Plumbing a shower drain for your new home is a short and simple process. Though it requires attention to detail, you can install a shower drain like a professional with a bit of planning and some common construction tools.

Map your drain hole. To determine the location, set the floor pan for your shower into the frame you have built. Make sure you have the shower pan facing the right way, then use a pencil to mark the location of the drain on the frame beneath.

Take the shower pan out of the frame and cut a drain hole in it with your saber or reciprocating saw. The hole should be a bit wider than the drain opening in your shower pan, about 6 inches in diameter. If you are setting a shower directly onto a concrete floor, you will need to run the plumbing for the drain through a gap in the concrete and into the ground using a PVC ground joint adapter.

With the shower pan still out, insert the drain spud, the part of the drain that screws into the pan. Using the spud nut, thread the drain spud into the shower pan. A spud wrench is the best tool for threading spud nuts. Be gentle with the drain spud. Thread it until it feels snugly attached; do not overtighten it.

Set the drain pan. To complete installation of your drain, you will need to have already plumbed a P-trap, a type of plumbing fixture frequently used in sink, bathtub and shower drains. Depending on the length, you will probably also need a PVC riser 2 inches in diameter to bring the height up to reach your shower drain. According to Rick Peters in the "Home How-to Handbook: Plumbing," most shower manufacturers recommend that the drain pan be set level on wet plaster, mortar or non-expanding foam.

After your shower pan is set and leveled, use a rubber gasket to firmly seal the space between your PVC riser and the shower spud. The best way to tamp a gasket into place is to gently hammer it using a packing iron or flat piece of metal. You should not use lubrication to get the gasket into place. If you are using a plastic shower, you might need to cement your riser pipe right into the shower instead of inserting a gasket.

Set the shower drain guard in place over the shower drain. Some shower drains require that you screw or pop them in, while others simply rest over the drain hole.

If you cannot access the plumbing beneath the shower drain to form a tight seal, you may need to use a compression-type connector.If you cannot access the plumbing beneath the shower to form a tight seal, you may need to use a compression-type connector.

The Important Function of Metal Stamping Dies

Metal stamping dies are the devices used in metal stamping machines. Each metal stamping machine can have one or more than one dies depending on the kind of machine. Dies are the main components in metal stamping machines that do the actual casting, punching, cutting and shaping of the metal sheet.

The basic die operations are drawing, shearing and bending. In metal stamping, the metal sheets are placed in a die or a press tool which has a specially designed cavity that gives the preferred shape to the metal sheet.

The upper part of the die connects to the press slide while the lower component connects to the press bed. A specific component known as the punch pushes the metal sheet through the die, thus performing the actual shaping operation. The patterns on the dies can be used to emboss or give three-dimensional lettering on the final product.

Dies are placed in sheet metal panels either alone or as a series of presses in a press line. Metal stamping dies and presses can have different input variables on the bases of tonnage, press parallelism, shut height, nitrogen pressure in dies, counterbalance pressure and press speed. These variables can influence the quality of the stamping panel, particularly during die setup. The same stamping press can be reused by replacing one set of dies with another.

The placement of dies in a press is known as die setup. Die setup decides the shut height and binder force. The number of components produced in a die setup is known as a batch.

Sheet Metal is a flat shaped product made from metal that can vary in thickness between 0.015cm and 6.32cm. Very thin pieces would be considered foil/leaf pieces while thicker pieces are called plates.

The reason why sheet metal is widely used is because it can be easily changed in to a variety of shapes. Through a wide variety of processes sheet metal machinery and tools are used to do this.

Stretching

Sheet metal can be straightened by using a grip at either side of the sheet and stretching it. The sheet metal machinery and tools used to do this are able to pull the sheet metal beyond its elastic limit allowing it to come out flat. The affect of the stretching is that its temper will be slightly raised.

Stamping

This is a process that may involve one or more stamping stations to perform various actions on a metal sheet to create a final workpiece. As the metal sheet is passed through the work stations each one alters the shape by cutting, forming or drawing the piece. Each stamping station contributes to the final piece.

Cutting

There are a number of ways that Sheet metal can be cut, ranging from manually cutting the sheet using tin snips to using computer aided laser cutting. Tin snips can be extremely tricky - even frustrating to use, especially when the sheet curves. The use of computer controlled laser cutting allows for greater accuracy while at the same time reducing the amount of waste.

Laser cutting involves focusing a beam of laser light over the sheer metal heating and subsequently burning the metal. The edge of the sheet will be very smooth. Old Trumpf equipment laser cutters can be used to get a precision of around 0.01mm.

Bending

Bending can be carried out by sheet metal machinery and tools and is done to shape the sheet into various forms. A pressbrake is used to bend the metal into a shape that is determined by its die set.

Shearing

When the sheet metal is too big for use, then the sheet needs to be cut to size. This process is called shearing. This step needs to be carried out before any stamping can be started. Sheet metal machinery and tools 'shear' the sheet metal until the desired size has been achieved.

Deep Drawing

The deep drawing process involves sheet metal machinery and tools 'punching' blank sheet metal into a die set. It thus involves a transformation of the sheet metal into a desired shape.

There are many different kinds of dies such as single station dies, multiple station dies, compound dies, progressive dies and tandem press lines. Most dies are designed by the metal stamping companies who use advanced technologies like CAD to design them according to customer specifications. Another classification of dies is draw dies, trim dies and cam-pierce dies.

Metal Stamping Info provides detailed information about precision, custom, and sheet metal stamping, as well as metal stamping machines and metal stamping die.

Get Rid of a Shower Drain Smell

Sometimes drains and pipes just smell for no determinable reason. Other times, the smell is a result of a clogged shower drain, or stagnant water in the bottom of the drain. Besides dealing with the cause, you also need to get rid of the smell itself. After removing the drain trap, or clearing the clog you can begin taking steps to remove the smell from the drain.

Pour 1 gallon of boiling water slowly down the drain. This will flush the drain and loosen any growth or bacterial that may be causing the smell.

Sprinkle 1 cup of baking soda into the drain and allow it to sit for 30 minutes. Baking soda absorbs odors.

Add 3 cups of white vinegar slowly down the drain. You will hear the fizzing as it interacts with the baking soda. This process will kill bacteria and germs in the drain as well as cleaning sludge from the inside of the drain pipe.

Leave the vinegar and baking soda in the drain until you take a shower again. The longer it has to work in the drain area of the shower, the better it will take care of the smell. It will also help clear away the stuff that can cause future odors.

Repeat this process monthly to help keep your shower drain clean and smell free.

Is your shower drain leaking or missing. This instruction shows how easy the installation of a PVC shower drain is. Check to see what system is currently used in your plumbing, take measurements and head to your hardware store.

Buy pvc hardware of the correct size so that it will fit with current plumbing. Remove any cracked or broken pipe. If the current plumbing is black pipe then rubber adaptors are available.

Carefully drill a hole in the shower or tub so that the hole and current plumbing align. Smooth all rough edges so that no leaks occur.

Apply pvc prep(the purple primer) to all pvc parts that will be joined; wait 20 seconds then apply pvc cement to both current plumbing and new shower drain. Cement glue is not needed when connecting pvc to rubber or black pipe to rubber. Apply plumbers caulk to drain cap and shower or tub base. Install screws on drain cap or if drain only has retention tabs then press those. Check for water tightness after caulk and glue have dried.

How to Use Metal Stamping

Often found in hardware, craft, woodworking or jewelry making shops, metal stamping can be used for everything from industrial marking and stamping to property identification to adorning decorative materials like leather or metal jewelry.

With a basic set of metal alphabet stamps and a hammer, you can also create artistic bands or tags to use when designing home decor, gardening or even gift wrapping projects. Use the following steps to use metal stamps with ease.

Gather the materials you need to use metal stamps, including a set of steel stamps, a regular-sized hammer (smaller hammers designed for craft purposes like setting eyelets won't pack enough punch to create an impression with the metal stamps), a cushioning material (such as a self-healing cutting mat) to protect your work surface from scratches and something to stamp.

Consider creating imprints with the metal alphabet stamps on objects like aluminum plant tags (to identify seedlings in your garden, tack onto candles or use as gift tags), metal tags (to create pet, identification or gift tags) or paper tags with wide metal rims, for example.

Place the tag on the self-healing cutting mat atop a hard surface such as your garage's concrete floor. You don't want to run the risk of damaging a wood table or ceramic tile by hammering with the steel stamps on the fragile work surface. Tack small items down with a piece of double-stick tape to prevent the item from slipping as you work with the hand metal stamp.

Position the first metal alphabet stamp on the metal object where you'd like the letter to appear. Hold the stamp halfway down so your fingers don't get pinched below the stamp or the hammer.

Rap the back of the hand metal stamp firmly. Exert more pressure if you're trying to use metal stamps on more durable objects like heavy metal tags-items like aluminum plant tags will require little effort to make an impression with the steel stamps. If the letter isn't clearly defined, simply place the stamp back over the shape (it should fit into the partial letter easily) and hammer once again.

Add definition to your design once the entire word or message is engraved onto the metal with your steel stamps. Buff some metallic rub-ons, acrylic paint or even stamping ink onto the surface, letting the color get into the grooves made with the sheet metal stamping. Let dry a few seconds, then use a soft cloth to buff the excess paint or ink from the metal object, just leaving color inside the letters.

How to Unstop a Clogged Shower Drain

When the water starts creeping up the side of your toes when the shower is running, it's time to either call the plumber or take some action yourself. You might as well save yourself the time, embarrassment and money by attempting this simple remedy yourself--the same thing a plumber will do anyway. Read on to learn how to unstop a clogged shower drain.

Dry off and dress, then come back to this when it's convenient. First, scrape your hand or a sponge or clump of paper towel across the top of the shower drain grate to remove any hair that may be hanging in the drain. Continue scraping until you can't get anymore hair out.

Unscrew the two or more small sheet metal screws holding down the drain grate, being extremely careful to hold the screws when they're removed, and place them where they won't be pushed or tapped and roll down the drain.

Slowly and carefully lift the drain grate and lay upside down on a section of paper towel. Remove any debris and hair from both sides, careful not to allow any to drop down the drain. Scrape any soap or calcium residue from both sides of the grate using the putty knife.

Point the flashlight beam down the drain and inspect the sides of the drain pipe as far down as you can see. You will probably see residue and tangled hair clinging to the inside of the drain pipe, but if you don't, skip the next step.

Tear off a 2 foot strip of duct tape and insert it doubled into a sling down into the pipe with the sticky side up and toward the center. Make sure there are at least 4 to 5 inches of tape at each end outside the drain to stick to the shower floor so you don't risk losing the tape down the drain. Adjust the tape with one of the screwdrivers so that it covers as much of the pipe opening as possible. Then chisel and scrape the inside of the pipe and opening to remove any residue, pulling up the tape whenever a large piece of the residue falls onto the tape. Pull hair out using the pliers.

Leaving the grate off, remove everything from the inside of the shower, then let the shower run until it fills up the pipe and begins to collect in the bottom of the shower. Use warm water and let if collect until there is an inch or more of water in the shower, then turn it off.

Immediately place the plumber's friend over the drain opening and position the lips of the rubber head around the drain opening so that suction can be acquired. Plunge the tool gently and repeatedly, paying attention that suction occurs.

Check under the plunger continually for a clog. Normally there will be a clump of matter somewhere in the drain line causing the clog. You want to locate this and get it out of the drain as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Continue until you get the clog, then continue longer to remove any remaining parts of the clog. The pressure from the plunger will either raise the clog to the drain opening or force it out the drain pipe into the sewer or septic tank.

Be prepared to work the plunger for a half hour or more--hopefully it will take only a few minutes.Do not apply liquid or powder drain cleaners in the shower drain. They are harmful to pipes, and most likely your clog is not grease-based.

How to Learn Metal Stamping

You can learn to metal stamping designs and letters onto metal plates and charms to make a variety of jewelry and craft projects.

Online tutorials and local classes illustrate and teach metal stamping techniques and, with practice, you can learn to create perfectly stamped verses, words or pictures. You could also learn to stamp impressions onto thin metal sheeting for a raised or embossed design that you can fill with color for added impact.

Watch online video tutorials or read and follow illustrated online articles to learn metal stamping techniques. You can find metal charms to make stamped jewelry pieces at your local craft store or at online jewelry suppliers. The process involves placing your metal charm or plate onto a bench block before you begin stamping. A bench block is a small block of steel with a smooth surface designed to support your metal as you stamp it. Bench blocks are used for other wire and metal crafts and you can easily find one at your local hardware or craft store.

Search for local metal artists offering metal stamping classes. Attend a class and try the tools and techniques before you purchase your own supplies. The stamping process is simple and the supplies are not expensive, but you should try your hand at stamping before you make an investment. Stamps come in a variety of letter sizes and styles or designs that you can apply to a metal plate. Local craft stores like Michael's, Hobby Lobby or AC Moore may also offer metal stamping classes.

Purchase a letter stamp set, inexpensive metal flashing and a bench block to practice and learn metal stamping on your own. Your initial investment will likely be less than $30 and you can practice holding your stamp straight and determine how much pressure you will need to exert in order to create a stamp.

A regular 16-ounce household hammer is the only other tool you need. One firm strike onto the top of your stamp should result in an adequate indentation. Practice spelling out words so you can learn the best ways to keep you letters in line, whether by drawing an erasable line or placing a piece of tape to act as a guide.

Enhance your sheet metal stamping designs with fine-tipped paint pens or with compounds that alter the color of the metal.Be careful not to hit your fingers as you strike the stamps.

How to Clean Shower Drain Weep Holes

When weep holes in the shower drain become blocked or clogged a disaster may be in the making. Weep holes provide a valuable service in draining away underfloor moisture that has seeped through grouting and corners.

If water penetrates through the tile grout and joints, the weep holes help it to find its way into the drainage system. If the weep holes are blocked, the water builds up and is forced into the walls and flooring in a two-story home, you may have damage to the first-floor ceiling.

At the bottom of the pan there are three weep holes in the metal drain. These can be accidentally plugged up during instillation, or caused by a build up of lime. Here is how to unblock lime scale and widen these holes if you must refit a new shower base.

Tools and Equipment Needed

1.Thin piece of wire or straightened paperclip

2.Screwdriver

Clean the Weep Holes

You may be lucky enough to have a simple lime build-up block. Find the weep holes by unscrewing the plug hole/top part of the drain hole. Look inside and you will see small holes around the outside of the main pipe. Stick a piece of thin wire through the holes if you see a white, crusty build-up. If your weep holes are subject to blocking with lime scale, they will have to be cleaned regularly to avoid water building up and damaging the floor.

If the Weep Holes are Blocked by Mortar:

Unfortunately, if the weep holes have been blocked by mortar or tile grout, you will have to pull up the entire shower base and remake it.

Step 1: Remove the Shower Base

Pull up the tiles and shower base, exposing the sub floor. Remake the shower base, remembering to properly install the new shower base over a pre-sloped floor.

Step 2: Cement the Floor

Install the new floor mortar while keeping the weep holes open with crushed tile or small pebbles. If you are putting in a tar pan, make sure you place a large nail in each weep hole to avoid the holes being blocked with tar. The nails should still be in the holes after the hot mopper leaves. Wiggle the nails as you remove them so the the holes remain fully open.

Step 3: Widen the Weep Holes

Before you lay the mortar bed, enlarge the holes with a drill. Take a drill with a ?-inch mortar bit. Hold it sideways as close to the tar pan as possible and aim for the tiny existing weep holes in the drain. Throw the bit away after enlarging the holes. Be careful with this step as it is easy to damage the drain pipe.

Step 4: Tile the Floor

Stack a good amount of gravel or crushed tile around the weep holes. Cut out a donut hole of brown paper to cover the gravel to protect the gravel from tile grout.

When installing your shower drain base, make sure to pile pebble-sized gravel around the drain to keep the weep holes open while cementing.

How to Clean a Shower Drain

There's nothing worse than turning on the shower and having a plugged up drain. Hair and soap scum are two of the biggest culprits that clog shower drains. How can you clean a shower drain and keep it from getting clogged? Find simple tips that are cheap and easy, to unclog any shower drain, here!

Every time you shower, you should remove any hair and soap pieces that accumulate on the drain cover in your shower. This will help keep the amount of material that goes into the drain itself to a minimum.

When your tub or shower stall is dry, pour 1/2 a cup of baking soda down into the drain itself. Pour it slowly so that it goes into the drain opening instead of accumulating on the top of the drain cover.

Next pour 2 cups of plain, white vinegar down your drain. The combination of the vinegar and baking soda will cause a harmless chemical reaction that will loosen materials that are stuck in your drain, causing them to move freely down your pipes.

After the baking soda and vinegar mixture has stopped foaming, run cold water down your drain for 5 minutes.

Repeat the baking soda and vinegar combination every week to keep your shower drain in tip-top, unclogged condition.

Baking soda and vinegar can be used in all of your drains to help keep them running free and clear!

It's hard to get clean if your shower head is spewing nastiness at you. Remove your shower head from the wall. Fill a bowl with straight vinegar and let the shower head soak in it for a few hours. Leave overnight if it's especially bad. Then scrub the holes with a toothbrush. If the holes are still clogged or green, use a toothpick or pin to clean them out. Rinse well and put the shower head back where it belongs.

Clean out the drain. This is quite possibly the worst part of the process, especially if you have long hair. Grab a garbage can or a plastic bag. Then unscrew the cap on your drain or just reach in, depending on the style of your drain. Using a large crochet hook or clip clothespin or (if you must) your fingers, yank the hair out and quickly throw it away. Yuck!

Keep pulling the hair out until the shower drain is clear. Better yet buy a Zip-It drain cleaning tool. Zip-It is a long plastic strip with teeth that get hairs stuck deep in the drain out. You may want to wear rubber gloves for this part, particularly if you share the shower with other people. There are just some hairs you don't want to touch!

How to Create a Modern-Style Sheet Metal Stamping Fence

Add an architectural feature to your backyard with a modern-inspired fence made of corrugated sheet metal stamping and galvanized conduit.

Step 1: Determine Post Placement and Dig Holes
Plan how large of a fence you need and decide how many fence sections will be needed, these can be any width or height you want. Use a post-hole digger or an auger to dig holes for the 4x4 fence posts. A fence section will be created to fit between each pair of 4x4 posts.

Step 2: Create Corrugated Metal Sections
Create the framework for each section from 2x4s, making sure to cut a groove with a router lengthwise on the inside of each board for the sheet metal to slide into. Screw the bottom and two side 2x4s together forming a “U” shape, then slide the sheet metal down into the framework and screw on the top 2x4 which will lock the metal in place.

Step 3: Create Galvanized Conduit Sections
Create the other half of the fence sections using galvanized conduit. Instead of creating a routered groove in the framework like the previous sections, figure out how many evenly spaced conduits you want top to bottom. Using a drill with an appropriately-sized spade bit, drill holes on the two side 2x4s to hold the conduit in place when the framework is together. Then simply screw together the framework, making sure to slide the conduit into place before the second side is installed.

Step 4: Install Fence Sections
Install the fence sections between the 4x4 posts. You can create any pattern you wish such as alternating sheet metal and conduit sections.

The sheet-metal-polishing tool uses inflatable rubber wheels and abrasive pads to produce a shine on stainless steel. Different wheel attachments give this tool its versatility. The right wheels can give the sheet-metal polisher other functions as well.

Flap wheel sanders are attached to the tool to sand or remove paint from surfaces. To use a flap wheel sander with a sheet-metal-polishing tool, move the machine back and forth over the surface to be sanded. Don't apply much pressure: doing so might damage the surface.

The inflatable contour wheel is a powerful attachment used to remove rust. Inflate the wheel to make it convex for working on flat surfaces; deflate it to make it concave for getting into curves and crevices. To use it, work the machine back and forth, and don't apply a lot of pressure.

To polish a cylindrical piece of metal stamping, loop a belt drive around the surface to be polished and around a rubber roller inside the polishing tool. When turned on, the polishing tool rotates the belt. Slowly move the tool up and down to polish the metal.

Shower Drain Rough-In

Shower drain can get clogged with hair and other gunk relatively easily. Luckily, eHow’s experts can help make the removal process equally easy. With some basic background knowledge and tips for shower maintenance and drain cleaning, you’ll be prepped for any shower drain DIY projects that come your way.

Host Amy Matthews demonstrates how to turn a pipe in a gravel bed into a usable shower drain.
Step 1: Remove the Rock Fill
Note: Building codes vary regarding shower drain requirements. Make sure to check local codes before getting started.

Remove the fill rock from the hole and use a PVC saw to cut the cap from the PVC stub installed by the plumber.

The rough-in already included a P-trap, so Amy just needed to create a simple drain. Use a PVC saw to cut the appropriate lengths of PVC pipe and dry-fit the parts; the final assembly should bring the drain line to the center of the floor opening, with the bottom of the drain flange level with the existing concrete floor.

Step 2: Assemble PVC Joints
Use a marker to draw lines across the PVC joints; these marks will make it easier to line up the parts quickly and easily during gluing.

Take apart the assembly and apply PVC cleaner to the appropriate pipe surfaces.

Apply PVC cement to the joints and assemble, lining up the reference marks. Work on one joint at a time, holding the pieces together for several moments after gluing to keep the chemical reaction from forcing them apart.

Step 3: Refill the Hole
Refill the hole with rock to support the new plumbing. Check to make sure the drain stays level.

Use a drill with a paddle bit to mix a bucket of quick-setting concrete to fill the remainder of the space.

Step 4: Spread the Concrete
Cover the drain with painter's tape to protect it, then pour concrete into the hole. Use a trowel to spread the concrete, tamping it and smoothing it over the surface.

Allow the concrete to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions before creating the concrete shower drain base. Amy and Andy used a concrete mix that dries in 30 minutes.