Method for Finishing Characteristics of Metal Stamping Dies

A method for improving the release and finish characteristics of metal stamping dies includes shot peening the interior die cavity walls with substantially spherical shot having a hardness value at least equal to the hardness value of the die cavity walls.

Optimizing the parameters of the peening process, such as the Almen intensity and the shot type, size, hardness and uniformity, maximizes the improvement to the release and finish characteristics of the die. Optionally, the initial shot peening is followed by a second shot peening with substantially spherical glass beads. Metal stamping dies shot peened in accordance with the present method exhibit substantial improvement in their release and finish characteristics over unpeened dies.

The present invention relates to metal stamping dies, and, more particularly, to a method for improving the release and finish characteristics of metal stamping dies through shot peening.

The use of metal stamping to produce a wide variety of metal parts is widespread. While there are variations of the metal stamping process, such as forming, piercing, deep drawing and the like and combinations thereof, and different types ofdies, such as single and multiple cavity dies and progressive dies, most of the principles and techniques are the same. The problems are also often the same.

One of the major problems which is common to virtually all metal stamping operations involvingdrawing or deformation of the workpiece,whereby the workpiece contacts the interior die cavity walls during the stamping operation, is a poor release characteristic between the workpiece and the die cavity walls. Poor release characteristics, whichcauses problems both during the stamping downstroke and the upstroke and workpiece removal stage, invariably leads to problems such as machine jams or smashups, misformed and non-uniform parts and poor finish characteristics on the workpiece surfaceproximal to the die cavity walls, such as scratches, galling, scoring, random shiny spots and the like. Although a poor release characteristic is most often the cause of a poor finish, poor finish can also be caused by other factors, such as heatbuildup, improper lubrication, surface flaws and the like.

Because of the high cost of rejected parts and the down time due to die maintenance and reconditioning, as well as the potential very high cost occasioned by a machine or die jam or smashup, constant efforts are being made to improve the releaseand finish characteristics of metal stamping dies. These efforts range from varying the composition of the die material to coating the interior die cavity walls with release agents, plating and the like. Even the die designer continually attempt toimprove the release and finish characteristics of dies by experimenting with variations of draft angles and the like.

While there has been steady improvement over the years, there is a continuing need for further improvements, especially improvements that are economical, reliable and durable.

The present invention was the result of the surprising discovery that shot peening metal stamping dies with generally spherical shot dramatically improves the release and finish characteristics of such dies, as well as substantially increasingdie life. Heretofore, the accepted rule in die construction and maintenance and reconditioning, with respect to achieving satisfactory release and finish characteristics, was to provide the interior die cavity walls with as smooth and uniform a surfaceas possible. Although shot peening has been in widespread use for years to increase the fatigue life and prevent stress corrosion cracking of metal parts, an irregular peened surface on the interior die cavity walls would predictably adversely affectthe release and finish characteristics of the die. Since any improvement in fatigue life or the prevention of stress corrosion cracking through shot peening would not be worth the sacrifice of having to accept poor release and finish characteristics ofthe die, shot peening has never been seriously considered for treatment of the interior die cavity walls of metal stamping dies.

In the broader aspects of the present invention, conventional shot peening techniques and equipment are utilized, i.e., the surface of the part is bombarded with shot by a peening apparatus under controlled conditions. However, in the preferredembodiment, optimum results are achieved by utilizing specific combinations of parameters with respect to shot type, size, hardness and Almen peening intensity. Examples of suitable conventional peening apparatus include air blasting equipment whichpropel the shot media at the part under air pressure, utilizing either suction, direct pressure or gravity feed, and airless or centrifugal wheel equipment which propels the shot media at the part by a rotating wheel. There are also freefall peeningmachines, where the shot media is dropped upon the part from various selected heights.

With respect to the shot peening media, the media must be substantially spherical. Irregular, angular or abrasive media, such as employed in grit blasting and sand blasting, are unacceptable in the method of the present invention. While avariety of generally spherical peening media may be utilized, such as steel shot, ceramic media and conditioned cut steel wire shot, steel shot is preferred. In the case of cut steel wire shot, it must be conditioned prior to use, such as by blasting itagainst a steel plate until the particles are rounded. Whichever peening media is selected, it must have a hardness value at least equal to the hardness value of the die cavity walls to achieve the improvements of the method of the present invention.

The peening process should be conducted under conditions that will yield substantially 100% coverage and saturation of the interior die cavity walls. In addition, it has been found that increasing the depth of the compressive stress layerprovides additional improvement. A substantial improvement, especially in die life, is achieved when the compressive stress layer is about 0.02 inch or greater. This increase in die life is partly due to the fact that some surface metal is removedduring each periodic maintenance or reconditioning operation. Accordingly, the greater the depth of the compressive stress layer, the more the amount of metal that can be removed during maintenance and reconditioning operations before the benefits ofthe shot peening are negated.

The optimum shot peening intensity will vary depending upon the hardness of the dies and the type of die metal. Under the generally accepted Almen shot peening intensity standard, which was developed by the General Motors Research LaboratoriesDivision of General Motors Corporation, the various variables of shot peening are integrated into a single scale for measuring, specifying and duplicating shot peening intensities and results. All measurements are made on the standard Almen No. 2 gage,as shown in the SAE Manual on Shot Peening, AMS 2430 and MIL S-13165. Even though the exact optimum Almen intensity will vary as the die material and shot parameters vary, it has been found that when regular hardness steel shot, with a Rockwell hardnessof from about C45 to about C55, is utilized, the desired compressive stress layer of at least about 0.02 inch will be achieved with Almen intensities of from about 0.004 to about 0.014 C2.

Also, while the optimum size of the shot peening media will vary, steel shot with a Mil Spec size of from about SAE 70 to about SAE 230 is preferred for most applications. For optimum reliability and uniformity of the peening media, cast steelshot certified to Mil Spec 13165 is especially preferred.

Finally, it has been found that yet further improvement is achieved by following the initial shot peening with a second shot peening utilizing substantially spherical glass beads. The optional second peening procedure provides primarily acleaning function and enhances the uniformity of the peened die surface.

The improvement achieved in the die release and finish characteristics by the present method is consistent and dramatic over a wide range of varying die constructions. One of the clearest gages of improvement is to monitor the frequency of diecleaning and reconditioning that is required. Comparison testing between untreated dies and dies shot peened in accordance with the present invention at various stamping work stations at a major automotive assembly plant revealed consistent improvementwith the shot peened dies. From large steel quarter panel dies to smaller front fender steel insert dies, the results are the same. The shot peened dies experienced far less down time and required far fewer periodic maintenance and reconditioningoperations. The improvement as a function of reduced down time and periodic maintenance and reconditioning ranges from a factor of several fold to a factor of over 30. In addition, the surface finish of the stamped parts is consistently uniform andfree from flaws.

In addition to the improvements that the present method provides with respect to release and finish characteristics and the reduction of down time and the need for periodic maintenance and reconditioning, additional advantages are achieved. Costwise, the present method is less costly than most other surface treatments and coatings which are applied to the interior die cavity walls. Moreover, additional cost savings are realized during die reconditioning or modification. Coatings, such asplating, tend to chip and flake and eventually must be replaced at high cost. In the event that the die needs modification due to an engineering change or the like or requires a repair operation such as welding, only the immediate area that is alteredor repaired may require repeening. In sharp contrast, such an isolated modification or repair in a plated die most often requires the entire die surface to be replated.

Thus, the surprising discovery that shot peening metal stamping dies in accordance with the present method dramatically improves release and finish characteristics, instead of adversely affecting them as would be predicted, has resulted in asimple, reliable and economical method which can benefit the entire metal stamping industry.

The Tile Shower Drain -- More Than You Can See

The tile shower drain is tricky and much of the tricky part is buried in the shower pan. Look, the whole tile shower is made to route all the water to the drain. All that water includes the part that leaks through the floor. Because tile floors are never completely water-tight. Some water ends up leaking right through the floor.

The drain has holes that are on two layers. The top layer you can easily see. The lower layer is down in the floor. The two layers are crucial to make the shower floor work.

Here's the way it works.

Usually the drain is attached to the drain pipe so the drain base sits right on the subfloor. Then you build a very important layer next. It's a masonry layer that slopes at about 1/4 inch per foot from the base of the drain up on the shower walls.

Then over that slopedlayer is installed the real trick to a shower floor. A waterproof sheet membrane is set over the sloped mortar and then attached right on top of the drain base. That liner is sealed to the base so the water that makes it to the liner is sent right to the lower drain holes.

After the liner is fitted in all the corners, which is tricky, the next layer is installed.

The next layer is another masonry layer that is the base for actually laying the shower floor tiles. So it's a mortar layer, then the liner membrane, then more mortar.

But think about this...

Learning how to make a shower pan using mortar is the time=tested way to build a problem-free shower. The really tricky part about building shower pans is the best parts are hidden. The critical parts are buried in the shower floor and can't be seen after the shower is finished. Here are some of the basics that must be right.

1. The liner membrane.

Did you know that a shower floor naturally leaks. It's true. The tile grout and even some tiles are not waterproof at all. Water just passes right through the floor and that can cause major damage. The key to a shower pan that works is one layer. That's a waterproof layer that is actually built into the floor. That's usually a vinyl sheet that catches all the water that leaks into the floor.

2. Pre-sloped mortar.

That vinyl liner membrane is installed over a sloped layer of mortar. The slope throws the water toward a special shower drain. That means the water that makes it to the waterproof layer won't just pool within the shower floor and sit there. Without a slope below the liner, the shower base becomes a moldy mess.

3. Deck mud.

The mortar used to build the floor is often called deck mud. It's a special mix of parts, but it's a simple mix. It's just portland cement, sand and water. That's it. Those three ingredients in the right recipe are all you want.

4. Walls count too.

There' more than mortar too. See, the high moisture shower can ruin the walls behind the tile too. That's why usually cement board is the wall base of choice. That's because cement board won't rot. It's also important thought to put a waterproof layer behind the cement board. Otherwise, the walls can become damp and a moldy mess hidden out of sight.

5. The top mortar.

The second layer of mortar and the top layer of the shower pan is a final sheet of deck mud. This is actually laid right over the liner membrane. Ever thought about how the water that makes it to the liner membrane makes it to the drain? It seems like water wouldn't move through a solid masonry layer. That's where the special tile shower drain enters the picture.

If you want to learn how to make a shower pan, you must understand some of the hidden parts. The waterproof liner membrane and the special tile shower drain are really the keys to a leak-proof shower. Those are both buried in the floor and that's why it's hard to see how they work.

Wouldn't the mortar stop up the lower shower drain holes? How could you have shower drain holes that are down inside a "solid" masonry floor? How's that?

The Custom Metal Stamping Process

Today, manufacturing has embraced a wide range of advanced technologies that have enabled the reduction of turnaround time considerably. As a result, demand on the metal stamping industry has also increased as the components have to be made to be exactly suitable to the final product. This has made precision and custom metal stamping much more important in the manufacturing industry.

Custom metal stamping is the process of creating metal products according to the required sizes and shapes through a method called stamping. It involves the pressing or stamping of the metal in dies or press tools to give it the right shape. In custom metal stamping, the final products are made according to customer's precise requirements and conditions. Custom metal stamping is used in various industries like construction, electrical, bearing, automotive, medical and janitorial, among others.

Metal stamping typically involves the normal process of metal stamping but with certain changes. These can be the change in the kind of metal to be used, changes in the size and shape of the final product, the need to produce many kinds of sizes and shapes, high quality of the tools used, the volume and the number of units to be produced, the kinds of presses required and the number of presses and dies required. Some producers are changing their processes to accommodate any volume, up to thousands of tons.

There are several challenges to be met by the custom metal stamping companies. These are producing a high quality product, designing new products or re-engineering existing products to suit customers' needs while also meeting delivery requirements. The company has to be involved in every stage right from product design assistance to the final delivery. Additionally, the costs also have to be kept low even as the scope of offerings is increased.

Sheet metal stamping is the system wherein metal sheets are used for producing final products. When a metal sheet is inserted into the die or the press, it is molded into the required shape and size. Metal sheets of only a certain thickness can be inserted into metal stamping machines. The maximum limit for most metal stamping machines is ? inch. However, machines can be designed to accommodate sheets of greater thickness also. Even the kind of metal sheets that can be processed in metal stamping are also specific. Only certain metals or alloys can be used like aluminum, brass, steel (hot rolled or cold rolled), galvanized steel, stainless steel, copper, zinc and titanium.

Before the metal sheet is inserted into the machine, the customer provides the prototype or at least a diagram of the final product. In case the customer doesn't have a clear idea of what the final product should look like, most metal stamping producers also offer engineering services for designing the products as well. Even some secondary services such as deburring and plating are provided by the metal stamping companies after the metal sheet is stamped.

There are three main components in sheet metal stamping -- the die, the punch and the binder/blank holder. The sheet is kept between the blank holder and the die and the punch is driven into the die wherein the sheet spreads over the die because of the drawing and stretching. The blank holder provides the restraining force that is required to control the sheet flow into the die. This force prevents wrinkling and tearing of the sheet as the quantity of material going into the machine can be controlled. For some processes where the blank holder force is too high for the material, draw beads are used to create the restraining force.

Sheet metal stamping is also known as thin stampings. Sheet metal stamping is used most primarily in the case-building process. It is also the most important part as each of the panels has to be stamped one by one. First the motherboard tray is stamped, then one-side panels on the right and left from bottom to top and back.

Goodbye to Water Worries - Install a Shower Pan & Liner

Although showers laden with ceramic tile look great, leaks are an inevitable fact of life. You can't assume your shower drain floor is waterproof just because you see no visible signs of tile or grout damage. Ceramic tile showers are not waterproof; they are water-repellent. Under the tiled floor surface lies about 2 inches of cement mortar. When using the shower, this mortar becomes saturated with water. Small "weep holes" at the base of the drain fixture allow the water to move down the drain pipe. Still, over time the water infiltration can cause damage to the grout, causing loose tiles and crumbling grout lines. Shower liners beneath the mortar are what protect the subfloor from deteriorating in the same way.

Most modern shower floors incorporate a flexible liner as a waterproof membrane beneath the tile and mortar. These liners are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or chlorinated polyethylene (CPE). The membranes are used in lieu of the outdated lead shower pans that were used years ago (and would ultimately fail over time). The flexible liners, available at plumbing wholesale stores and ceramic tile shops, are made of a rubber-like material that is impervious to water and resistant to the many chemicals found in a home. In fact, the stuff is probably an environmentalist's nightmare—it never seems to deteriorate.

The flexible liners conform to the various contours of the wood framing, bending upward at the walls and folding into corners. PVC liners tend to be stiffer and more difficult to work with than CPE liners, so a CPE liner might be a smart way to go for any first-time DIY'ers tackling the job. The drawback to CPE is that the material can be almost three times as expensive per square foot as the PVC product.

Line it Yourself

Installing a flexible shower pan liner is not beyond the ability of a smart do-it-yourselfer, but there are a few guidelines to help ease the procedure. This article will assume the subfloor of the shower is constructed of plywood, although the same principles apply to concrete flooring where the sloped mortar bed is applied beneath the pan liner. The installation method is the same for CPE and PVC liners, with the exception of the bonding adhesive used for seaming.

For a typical plywood subfloor, begin by cutting a hole in the center of the shower floor for the drain assembly. Start with a small hole; you can always cut away more material with a utility knife, but you don't want the drain hole to be too big. Then lay the drain base in the opening. Make sure the liner doesn't interfere with the drain's weep holes. Once you have made a good fit, use adhesive silicone caulk on both sides of the liner where it contacts the drain. Plastic plumbing drains usually have a 1/8-inch flange lip that project's above the subfloor. In some cases this may stop some of the water from easily flowing into the drain. One solution to this is to route a channel that allows the top of the drain flange to be flush with the subfloor. Then solvent-weld the drain base to the drain pipe using the appropriate solvent cement.

To prevent the small weep holes in the drain from getting clogged with cement or debris, place washed pea gravel over the holes. It may help to cover the drain base opening with duct tape to keep out debris until you're ready to add the finished drain.

Many tile shower drains have threaded, adjustable finished drains that allow you to adjust them to a wide range of finished floor thicknesses. The flexible liners attach to the drain like a rubber washer pinched between a nut and bolt. Once the adjustable finished drain is tightened, all the water in the shower will flow toward the drain.

The pre-measured liner needs to lap up the sides of the shower walls at least 9 inches. It is nailed to the framing studs of the shower near the top of the lapped edge. If it is necessary to seam together two pieces of material, a special solvent can be used to glue them together to form a single waterproof liner.

Spread the liner material from the drain body outward, toward the side framing and the curb so it lays flat on the floor. Fold the corners and nail or staple the liner to the sidewall framing or wall studs. Fasten 1/2 inch below the upper edge of the material. Work your way around the perimeter of the liner, fastening it into the framing. Lap the edge of the liner completely over the shower curb and nail it to the outside edge of the curb.

Tip: Are you also building the framing of the shower? If you can adjust the rough framing slightly, installing the liner can be a much easier job. When framing a shower, leave 1/4 inch of additional space at the end of each corner. This means the total wall length is 1/2 inch shorter than the opening. The gap provides a good place to store the extra CPE membrane material that bunches up as you round the corner. If you don't have the option of adjusting the framing, then just keep the corner folds as flat and tight as possible.

Test the installation by plugging the drain pipe and filling the shower basin with water just below the top of the curb, and then let it sit for four hours. Check for leaks and repair as necessary. Retest the liner until you're sure the installation is leak-free. Completely drain the water and dry the shower before moving on with construction.

Surefire Slope for Shower Floors

The Oneliner from Dix Systems is a structured liner for use in ceramic tiled showers that will stop any leakage from the shower floor and help prevent mildew problems. Constructed of heavy-duty polyethylene, this single-piece liner eliminates folds and seams and provides the necessary slope to channel water to the shower drain without the need for any extra backing. The liner can be can custom manufactured to any size.

Sheet Metal Stamping In The Automotive Industry

Historically, sheet metal stamping has been used extensively to produce automotive body panels. Although sheet metal stamping use has decreased with the advent of fiberglass body panels, sheet metal stamping is still the most popular material for manufacturing automobiles today. The addition of lasers and robotics to the automobile manufacturing process has further expanded the way that sheet metal stamping is processed.

Lasers

Lasers have been used in production facilities since the 1960's. Today, they are used to cut, form holes, engrave, weld or heat treat sheet metal stamping for use in automotive production.

Lasers are used in applications that rely on precise measurements and exact alignments.

The adjustment of lasers is measured in micrometers, or millionths of a meter.

There are many different types of lasers used to alter sheet metal stamping and plastics in the automotive industry.

Carbon dioxide laser- uses a mixture of carbon dioxide, nitrogen and helium to produce a continuous laser output

Continuous-wave laser- this type of laser produces light beams continuously rather than in controlled pulses

Excimer laser-emits light in a UV spectrum that is used for producing high quality edges on parts that are prone to cracking or thermal damage; it falls into the category of pulsed-gas lasers

Gas laser-any laser that uses a gas mixture as the lasing medium; common gases are argon and carbon dioxide

Pulsed laser-emits light in controlled pulses and is preferred for thin materials ; it can be used to create intricate details and work in tight corners without burning

Ruby laser-a solid state laser that uses a synthetic ruby crystal with a chromium impurity as the lasing medium

Solid-state laser-a type of laser that uses a crystal or glass as the host for an impurity to produce the lasing action; especially useful for precise measuring and spot welding

Yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG) laser-ranges in power from a few milliwatts to more than 400 watts; used for cutting, drilling, heat treating and welding operations

Robotics

Robotics are often used for repetitive tasks, monotonous jobs or those parts of the manufacturing process that are physically difficult or take place in environmentally unpleasant conditions. They are directed by computer programs and perform precise operations without human intervention.

Lasers and robotics have significantly increased the speed at which sheet metal stamping can be processed in the automotive manufacturing process. Continued technological advancements in these two areas will further increase the cost effectiveness and productivity of automotive manufacturing facilities.

A Cheap and Easy Way to Unclog a Shower or Bathtub Drain

My friend recently called to tell me about a very cheap and easy innovative product that worked incredibly well to unclog a shower drain and bathtub drain in his home. The shower and bathtub had been draining very slowly, and he found a good product that was cheap and easy to use.

Many people resort to using coat hangers, caustic chemicals, natural products that do not work, or they end up taking apart shower or bathtub drains when all they really need is a two-dollar item from their local hardware or home improvement store. This cheap and easy way to unclog bathtub, shower, or sink piping is called a Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool, and according to my friend, it pulls out tremendous amounts of hair and other accumulated gunk from the bathtub, shower, or sink piping. It was amazingly cheap and very easy to use, and it was a great alternative to waiting for his landlord to do the job.

Precautionary Statement

As with any product, no matter how cheap or easy it seems to operate, use commonsense, and read product label instructions before attempting to unclog bathtub, shower, sink drains, or any other clogged piping.

Description of the Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool

Do not bother destroying and bending a metal coat hanger in an effort to unclog hair from a bathtub, sink, or shower drain, and do not waste time taking the drains apart or using a toilet plunger to unclog the mess. According to my friend, the Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool works like a charm to unclog shower, bathtub, and sink drains filled with hair, globs of soap, body oil, and other unidentifiable gunk that has attached itself to the hair and the sides of piping. He was amazed by how cheap, easy, and how fast this product worked to unclog all of the drains in his rented home.

The Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool is said to be a fantastic product that works like a plumbing snake, but unlike an ordinary plumbing snake, it has backwards facing barbs that work to unclog a shower or bathtub drain in a matter of minutes. The Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool is twenty-four inches in length, and although it is said to be a disposable product, when care is taken it can be cleaned and used again and again. Why throw something away just because it is inexpensive and labeled as disposable? My son kept the Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool he purchased and has no intention of throwing it away until the barbs break and it is no longer useful to unclog the bathtub, sink, or shower drain in his home.

How to Unclog a Drain with this Cheap and Innovative Tool

To unclog a shower, bathtub, sink, or almost any other drain that is clogged with hair and other gunk in a cheap and easy way, simply use the barb-covered snake according to product label instructions. Guide this cheap and easy product into a bathtub, sink, or shower opening, and pull it back to unclog the piping. It will unclog a shower, sink, or bathtub pipe filled with hair and the gunk that goes with it, and considering the other methods typically used to unclog a bathtub, sink, or shower drain, it is two dollars well-spent since it is cheap, easy, and most of all, it works.

Both the bathtub and shower drain in my rented home are currently draining very slowly, and I am sure they must be clogged with accumulated hair and other disgusting gunk. I plan on buying the cheap and easy Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool next time I visit my local Ace Hardware or home improvement store. It would be nice to once again take a shower in the bathtub without the water continually rising and draining out slowly, and the Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool sounds like a cheap and easy way to unclog just about any drain in the home.

Metal Stamping Tools and Die Hot Sheet Metal Stamping

Metal Stamping tools are hard tools made with hard materials like steel. Usually hot stamping die is used for stamping metal surfaces. Die is the tooling used to produce a stamped part. A die set assembly has male and female components that actually produce the shaped stamping. Stamping die stamps the design on the metallic surface by using moulding process.

Stamping can be fun when done right. But, you have to have the right stamping tool for precision metal stamping. Latest stamping methods are affordable and provide creative stamping solutions. Stamping tools can be used for stamping metal, foils, wood, leather and plastic. Stamping tools companies usually provide.

Stamping tools and dies servicesIn-house die designClean & organized tools roomFast tooling modificationsTry-out, first-run and capability Studies.

Whether you need a different part for a vehicle or for a roof of a building, is the ability to get the right shape through metal bending. The procedure that is used for bending can provide you with a custom fit and will help you to get the right results through the shape that is formed from this process. The different procedures that are used will create an alternative look to the metal and can help with the right formation of the metal for any need.

When beginning to look into metal bending, you will notice that there are several expected results from the procedures that are used. Different types of bending are divided according to the shape that you need with the metal. The most common types of bends are the V - shape, U - shape or channel shape. The other differences in the bends will depend on the length of the metal that is needed as well as the specific area that the metal will be used in. For instance, if the metal is going to be used for an air duct, it will need a different type of bend from the use of an automobile part.

The common shapes that are used with metal bending then move into several processes to make the correct design. Each of these is designed to create the right shapes of the metal while providing a convenient fit for different needs. One of the common types is known as the three point bend, which will fold the metal in several different places. Rotary bending and folding are other common procedures, each which are developed to create specific width, designs and measurements for different areas.

To formulate the type of metal bending that is used, manufacturers will use specific equations that determine the results of the metal. The processes used will begin with a determination of the thickness of the material. If the metal is thicker, then processes with more compression and air may be used.

There are also factors such as how much allowance can be used for the metal as well as what the deduction is for the metal. The angle in degrees will also be measured in relation to this. All of the metal bending will then fit together into a process that combines air compression and pressure to make the right look to the material.

The procedures and types of metal bending that are used by manufacturers create a different set of materials that can be used in various processes. After metal has been bent to the right shape, it will lead to a different set of uses. The result will be sturdy parts used for transportation, buildings and other areas that require extra support through the use of metal.

Metal Stamping:

Metal stamping tools and stamping dies are used to produce high volume sheet metal parts using press. Parts can be stamped from any ductile metal to create and achieve almost any desired configuration.

Metal stamping is generally performed on materials .020" to .080" thick with tolerances to ±.001. The process also can be applied to foils as thin as .001". Stamping is also done by machine press. The metal is placed between the press plates and pressed against each other. This deforms the metal into the desired shape.

Die Hot Sheet Metal Stamping:

The Die Hot Sheet Metal Stamping process is described as relief printing and as the name implies uses printing plates with raised images. Hot stamping is used in graphic arts, plastics and packaging industries. Die hot stamping is versatile. It can print onto all wettable materials - paper and board, thermoplastics and duroplastics, leather, textiles, wood and many other materials.

Best Ways to Unclog a Shower Drain

The bathrooms in most homes get more than their fair share of traffic and the problems that accompany heavy use, but by knowing the best ways to unclog a shower drain a homeowner can avoid the panic that occurs when a shower is not working properly.

The reafriends why shower drains can become clogged are usually all associated with the body oils and hair that go down the drain after each family member showers, and over time can cause a clog that can be tough to remove. The best ways to unclog a shower drain match the remedy to the severity of the clog, because the basic idea is to just get the water flowing again without the use of excessive measures.

The best way to unclog a shower drain that is only mildly showing signs of a slowing water flow is to place a cup of vinegar into the drain and let it stand for several hours. Follow this up with by running hot water down the shower drain and in most instances the drain will flow more freely. Another remedy to unclog a shower drain that is minor is to place an ounce of dish detergent that has an degreasing agent in it into the drain and to run hot water through the drain.

To unclog a shower drain that is moderately clogged, one of the best remedies is to place a commercial drain cleaner into the drain that has an acid base. These chemicals can cut through clogs rather quickly, especially clogs that are due to the accumulation of hair. In order to use this remedy, you must first remove the shower drain cover by unscrewing it and then use a crystallized drain cleaner that is placed directly into the drain. The reafriend for this is that liquid drain cleaners can overflow the drain and cause severe damage to bathtub interiors. After the chemical has been added let it work for as long as possible and then flush the drain by turning on the hot water.

Have you ever noticed a layer of white crusty stuff on your shower head? That is mineral deposits left by your water. Over time, it can clog the holes in your shower head and thus reduce the flow of water coming out of your shower head.

Vinegar is a great home remedy to get your shower head clean without damaging the finish on your shower head. Use a wrench to loosen your shower head to remove. To avoid the shower head being damaged by the wrench, wrap a towel around the shower head first so it is not damaged by the wrench. Then place the shower head in a bowl of white vinegar. Make sure all the holes of the shower head are completely submersed. Soak in the vinegar for about 15-20 minutes. Stubborn deposits may take a little longer, but do not soak for more than 30 minutes at a time. After soaking, use an old toothbrush or other stiff brush to scrub the holes clean. Before re-attaching the shower head, wrap some plumber's tape around the threads for a tight seal and prevent leaks. Run some hot water through the shower head to get rid of any remaining vinegar.

If you can't remove your shower head for cleaning, fill a small plastic bag like a sandwich bag with white vinegar and secure tightly around the shower head. As mentioned above, soak for 15-20 minutes but no longer than 30 minutes at a time. Use a brush to clean the holes, and run hot water through the shower head to rinse.

If you have ever noticed an orange ring left around your shower drain when all the water has run out, you probably have rust in your water or in your pipes. Your shower head may have an orange tint to it. Lemon juice rubbed onto your shower head is an effective cleaner. Baking soda with a little water to form a paste works well also. Rub the mixture on with a sponge and rinse with water. Follow that up with scrubbing the holes of the shower head with a brush to make sure there is no baking soda in the holes. There are also commercial cleaners like CLR that will work if there is considerable build-up. Follow the instructions carefully so as not to harm the finish on your shower head.

So keep your shower head clean to maintain a better flow of water, which will result in a better shower for you.

The best way to unclog a shower drain that is severely clogged is to remove the shower drain cover, and using a coat hanger remove as much hair and grease as is possible. A plumbing snake can them be used on the drain to open up the clog. If the water flow is good after this process the job is complete - if not remove the plumbing snake and then add chemical drain cleaner and that should do the trick to unclog the shower drain.

How to Become a Metal Stamping Press Operator

Factory work can be a thankless job most of the time without much of an opportunity for advancement, but the ability to become a metal stamping press operator can lead to bigger and better things.

In the metal stamping industry every employee looks for a more lucrative position in terms of pay, and to become a metal stamping press operator can provide an excellent learning opportunity that can result in promotion to a supervisory position or one that is at least less physically demanding. As far as the labor force in a factory goes tool and die makers usually make the most money, and many have started their careers as a metal stamping press operator.

To become a metal stamping press operator an unskilled person usually accepts a position as a laborer in a metal stamping plant. After a period of "paying your dues" an individual may be offered as position as a press tender, which encompasses any tasks that are necessary to keep a stamping press functioning at full capacity. These tasks may include bringing new steel to a metal stamping press operator or taking away the finished product.

After a period as a tender, the next step to become a metal stamping press operator is to assume the position of a "catcher" - the person that catches the pieces as they come from the stamping press and has the responsibility to check that there are no quality issues. The reason that time must be spent in each of these positions before an individual can become a metal stamping press operator is so that they can absorb the nuances of the job by watching and learning a skilled metal stamping press operator in action.

Eventually an individual will be promoted to become a metal stamping press operator and will initially be assigned a more simple stamping job on a press with a force of smaller size and tonage. Over time and with hundreds of thousands of repetitions, a metal stamping press operator will learn and rise in the factory heirarchy until they are considered competent enough to be assigned stamping jobs on 300 to 1,500 ton presses with a subsequent increase in salary based on experience and production.

A responsible employer will only allow an employee to become a metal stamping press operator after significant training has been completed. To become a sheet metal stamping press operator is not a tremendously difficult task, but when the job is performed incorrectly it can be an extremely dangerous situation for the metal stamping press operator as well as any other employee in the immediate vicinity.

How to Unplug A Shower Drain If You Have No Auger

Shower drain easily become clogged with a combination of hair, soap scum and whatever else sloughs off human bodies into the drain.

Do it yourself or with a friend. A neighbor and I recently unplugged his shower by this method as no auger was immediately available. It can be done by one, but a team of two ensures quicker success.

Remove the strainer over the drain. This is usually held in place with two screws. If there are none, use a pair of pliers, preferably long nosed ones. Catch the holes in the drain and lift it aside.

Fill your shower with a couple of inches of water. Now using a good plunger, plunge vigorously. This may work. It didn't work for us, so we moved on to step four.

Get your garden hose and jam in into the drain as far as easily possible. Wad up a small towel and hold tightly around the hole and against the drain opening. Your helper should now quickly turn on the hose with full force. He/she can turn it on and off several times and hopefully the clog will move on down the line.

Clean up and you are finished. I hope this works for you. If not, you may have to borrow, rent, or buy an auger. You will need a drain auger. You will need to push the auger into the drain until it can reach and catch the clog. You can then pull it out, whole or in parts.

Every once in a while you find yourself having to clean the bath tub drain because the water will no longer go down. You certainly don't look forward to it, but you know that if you don't unclog it, your next shower might feel more like a wading pool. Here are some tips on how to clean the bath tub drain:

First unscrew the drain cover to see what is lurking beneath. Most often the culprit of the clog in the bath tub drain is hair that's wrapped around the metal piece spanning the width of the drain.

Use the tweezers to pull out the hair that is stuck on the metal piece in bath tub drain. It might take some time to pull it out, and it WILL be slimy, but get as much of the hair out as possible.

Put on latex gloves and pull out any remaining hair that you cannot get out of the bath tub drain with the tweezers.

Still wearing the latex gloves, use your fingers to scrape the sides of the drain to loosen any mold or slime that is deposited onto the side wall of the bath tub drain.

Use the comet to clean the bath tub drain (as far as you can reach) and also clean the outside of the drain while you're there. Rinse the drain thoroughly with hot water.

Pour 1/5 bottle of the Drano Max Gel down the shower drain. For tougher clogs, pour 1/2 bottle. Let the Drano sit for 15 minutes (30 minutes for tough clogs), then flush it with hot water. Repeat this step if the bath tub drain is still clogged.

Finding the Right Metal Stamping Manufacturer

Sheet metal stamping products could range from the simplest to the most complex mechanical parts that are used in industries like automotive, house ware, aircraft, medical and communications. Such industries are constantly looking for manufacturers that will provide them the best metal products at affordable prices.

For a manufacturer, metalworking is by far the most effective and economical method to produce different types of metals. The process involves cutting and forming sheet metal into shapes and sizes based on a client's design and specifications. They make use of special tools such as stamping dyes, as well as the most innovative technologies that not only speed up the rate of production but also produce high quality products at affordable cost.

Sheet metal stamping is used to produce a wide variety of items like automobile panels, rain gutters, restaurant equipment, road signs and heating ducts, fabricating. As a result, installing and maintaining these items can be a hazardous job.

Sheet metal stamping workers are subject to frequent cuts, scrapes, burns and falls from scaffoldings or ladders. Many times, the sheet metal stamping production process itself requires repetitive heavy lifting, bending and squatting, putting workers at risk for back, neck and muscle injuries. Knowing the proper safety procedures can help keep sheet metal stamping production workers safe on the job.

Safety Equipment is everyone's Friend

While safety equipment may feel like a cumbersome, frivolous waste of time, safety gear is designed to prevent and limit injury should an accident occur. Accidents can happen in a matter of seconds.

During an accident, safety equipment must already be in place in order to be effective. Hard hats, gloves and safety glasses left in a truck or tool box are useless during an accident.

Sheet metal stamping workers can be subject to flying debris and tiny shards of metal shavings, cuts from sharp metal edges, crushing injuries from presses and other sheet metal stamping forming equipment, and burns from metal heated during production, installation or repair.

Many of these injuries have the potential to be life threatening unless safety equipment is worn when working around sheet metal stamping.

Preventing Back Injury in sheet metal stamping Workers

Back and neck injuries are one the most common causes of Worker's Compensation claims. A serious muscle injury can keep a sheet metal stamping worker from the job for months while muscles, tendons, tissue and bones heal.

Learning to lift with the large, strong muscles of the legs instead of the muscles of the neck, back and arms is crucial to preventing back injuries. A 100 pound woman can easily pick up a 150 pound weight with proper body mechanics.

Heavy lifting requires lowering the body's center of gravity. Bending at the knees improves balance and provides a stable, lowered center. Lifting is only begun after the neck and back muscles are relaxed. Upper body muscles should not bear the weight of the object being moved; they should only be used to hold the object near the body.

If at all possible, sheet metal stamping workers should plan and position their workstations and materials so that heavy items can be lifted from waist high in a standing position. Feet should be placed shoulder width apart, directly under the hips.

The body can also be positioned to take advantage pivoting movements that can reduce the chance of falls or improper body alignment during transfers of heavy objects. These lifting techniques can reduce muscle strain and prevent neck and back injuries in sheet metal stamping workers.

The best custom manufacturers spend enough time with their prospective clients discussing every aspect of the request, from the desired shape and size, as well as the end products' look and finish. They can also provide expert design and engineering services, as well as recommend the use of special materials and methods to further enhance the final product.

A reliable metalworking company conducts professional engineering with the help of a team of fully-trained personnel. The company should also be performing a series of quality checks and inspection procedures to ensure that every single product that leaves the production is of high quality and is able to meet the requirements of their clients. Doing a background check is the best way to determine which of the manufacturers can give you the best service when it comes to custom metal stamping.

Installing a Shower Pan Drain

Introduction

Adding a new shower pan is one way one can update a bathroom. Part of the shower pan installation is to install a new shower drain. There are different types of shower drains available. Choose the one that will work well for the type of shower pan material that you'll use. This example will show how to install a tile shower drain, which comes in either PVC (polyvinyl chloride) for PVC drainpipe or ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) for ABS drainpipe. They both come with stainless steel, polished brass or white plastic strainers.

Materials and Tools

For the shower drain installation, you need a drain unit, PVC or ABS solvent cement, pea gravel, a screwdriver, and silicone caulk or sealer. You also need a premeasured pan liner and a sharp blade. The tile shower drain unit comes with a drain base, a reversible clamping ring, collar bolts, an adjustable drain barrel and a strainer. When choosing the type of solvent cement to use, make sure it is compatible with the type of drainpipe. Use PVC solvent cement for a drainpipe made of PVC, or choose ABS cement solvent to use for an ABS drainpipe.

Installation

Mount the tile shower drain on top of the subfloor. Connect the drain base to the drainpipe by applying cement solvent inside the drain base before sliding it down the drainpipe. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the upper surface, which will seal the underside of the pan liner and the drain base surface.

Place the clamping ringbolts that came with the drain unit and screw them onto the drain base. Lay down the pan liner on the subfloor and over the drain body. Perform this step before the silicone caulk dries. Slit the top of each ringbolt with an "X" in order for the pan liner to slide over the bolts. Then, press the pan liner firmly into place.

Cut out the pan-liner material to the dimension of the drain hole and drain base. Attach the clamping ring over the bolts and then turn the ring counter-clockwise to lock it into place. Make sure to tighten the bolts so that they are snug. Check also that the weep holes are clear of any silicone material or pan liner material. Tighten the clamping ring to the drain base.

Apply some pea gravel over the weep holes. Connect the adjustable shower drain barrel to the clamping ring by turning the drain barrel following the inner thread pattern of the clamping ring. Adjust the height based on the floor's height. Finally, place the strainer on top of the drain barrel.

Precision Sheet Metal Stamping Fabrication

Metal stamping fabrication is a process of producing a metal stamping component by modifying a raw piece of material in a machine shop. These materials are processed on different temperatures and depending on the range of temperatures; the process is classified as cold, warm and hot.

Precision sheet metal stamping fabrication describes various different processes that form sheet metal into finished products. Objects that are fabricated and used for machinery and other instruments are among the daily used objects like paper clips, computers, bolts, nails, automotive parts and many more.

There are various factors like rate of production, desired geometry, and other physical requirements that influence the fabrication process. The benefits of the metal fabrication process are far and wide because it is used by all industries.

Every precision sheet metal stamping fabrication process undergoes three primary processes that include forming, cutting and finishing. Forming is a process that alters the form of the flat metal sheet. Forming can be done using various different processes like annealing, bending, cold rolling, drawing, forging, mechanical working, press forming, roll forming and welding.

After forming, a metal sheet is cut to alter the shape by removing some unwanted material. The cutting process includes stamping, shearing, sawing, drilling, blanking and punching. Finally, the last stage is the finishing process. In this process, the shaped metal sheet is given a finished and soft surface using sanding and vibration techniques.

Aesthetic considerations like painting and visual design applications are also few of the method applied to give the finishing touch. Some of the latest techniques in metal fabrication involve laser cutting, electro discharge machining, water jet cutting and wire cut EDM. In some cases CNC machining is also used.

There are various products that are created during precision sheet metal fabrication. The most common objects produced are metal cabinets, enclosures, ventilation shafts, hoods, exhaust systems, tanks and prototypes. Metal fabrication is also used by various other industries for food dispensing, food storage, communications, automotive, computer, medical, electronics, aerospace, telecommunication, pharmaceutical, residential and construction.

Some of the types of Precision sheet metal stamping Fabrication include processes like Annealing (heating), Bending (straining), Cold forming, Cold rolling (shaping sheet metal using rollers), Drawing (material is forced into a die with a punch to form a cup-like shape), Forging (hammering or pressing), Rolling (reducing thickness of the material), Extrusion (producing cylindrical bars or hollow tubes by forcing round billets through one or more dies) and Spinning (forms axially symmetrical shapes).

How to Fix a Smelly Shower Drain and Remove a Shower Drain Cover

Bad shower drain odors can range from mild to knock you down rotten smelling. Drain odor is usually caused by clogs in plumbing that is evidenced by a slow drain or by a buildup of soap scum in the drain. With a little bit of maintenance, drain smell can be eliminated. Preventative routine drain maintenance will keep your drain fresh.

Clean the shower with a sponge and shower cleaner to remove soap scum, mildew and dirt. Sometimes the smell is not really coming from the drain but is rather coming from a dirty shower surface.

Remove hair and debris from the grate over the shower drain, if one is installed. Hair and debris stops the shower from draining properly and produces a smell on its own.

Unclog the shower drain if it is draining slowly. Slow drains mean there is a buildup of debris in the pipes. This buildup causes a bad odor. Use a plunger to unclog the drain. If a plunger does not work pour a drain cleaning solution down the drain. Drain cleaning solutions can be purchased at building supply and plumbing supply stores. If neither the plunger or the drain cleaning solution is effective, use an auger to clear the blockage. If you do not know how to use an auger or if the auger does not clear the drain, call a plumber for assistance.

Eliminate odor with baking soda. Pour 1/4 cup of baking soda down the shower drain followed by a gallon of hot water, to absorb and remove odors and freshen the smell of the drain. Make it a regular weekly routine to use baking soda in order to freshen drains and prevent drain odor from building up in the first place.

Call a plumber if none of these methods work to eliminate bad shower drain odor. Odor that persists after using these remedies may be caused by serious plumbing problems.

Removing a shower drain cover is useful for replacing the cover, cleaning out the shower drain, troubleshooting a clogged drain or ensuring the safe use of liquid drain cleaners. Removing the cover is different from removing the actual drain. Removing the entire drain fixture may require a plumber, while cover removal can usually be done by the homeowner or resident.

Dry the area on and around the shower drain cover. This will ensure that the screwdriver will not slide around during use.

Remove the drain stopper if there is one. Do so by pulling the stopper up until it disconnects from the trip lever. Shower-only setups will not have a drain stopper.

Locate a screw in the center of the cover. Unscrew the screw using the Phillips head screwdriver. Not all shower drains will have this screw.

Use the flat-head screwdriver to pop the drain cover out of the drain fixture. Place the tip of the screwdriver along the edge of the drain cover, not outside the actual drain fixture.

Apply a small amount of force on the screwdriver while prying up the shower drain cover. Silicone or another sealant may have been used to seal the drain fixture. If so, work the screwdriver around the outside of the drain cover itself to loosen the seal. Continue to pry around the edge of the drain cover until it pops out.

The Process of Precision Metal Stamping

Precision metal stamping is the process of making 3-dimensional metal parts, lettering and other embossing. This is a kind of sheet metal stamping used mostly for decorative purposes. It is similar to normal metal stamping, which is the process of molding metal into different shapes and sizes.

The products obtained through metal stamping are used as components for some larger products in other industries. The most common metals and alloys used for precision metal stamping are copper, aluminum, brass, beryllium, nickel, nickel silver, steel, stainless steel, phos bronze and titanium.

Precision metal stamping is applicable to many industries like computers, electronics, electrical, dental, aerospace, instrumentation, military specs, defense, telecom and automotives. There are many methods in precision metal stamping for producing stamped prototypes. Blank creation is one such method. Blank creation involves the creation of a flat state of the component. The flat blank sheet is then used to make the part's features. In blank creation, there are many processes like nibbling, chemical etching, water jet cutting, wire EDM, punch and die.

There are also many methods for producing prototypes by precision stamping. The type of method used depends on the size and intricacy of the parts to be produced as well as the number of prototypes. Single part transfer is one such method in which single parts are transferred from one station to the next for blanking and metal forming.

The main advantage with this method is the cost effectiveness. One single, standard system can be maintained for designing, manufacturing and holding tooling inserts. However, this system is slow because it needs individual prototype parts. The other method is the progressive strip prototyping which involves the automatic transfer of the metal from one stage to the next.

Precision metal stamping can be done at very high speeds and even up to 1,200 strokes per minute. Precision metal stamping gives several advantages like the ability to use any metal or alloy and creation of components with very precise dimensions and shapes. Plating can also be very precise which is helpful when working with precious metals like gold and palladium.

An Introduction to Metal Stamping Machines

Metal stamping machines are used to give the exact shape and parameters to the metal products. When a metal sheet is inserted into the metal stamping machine, it can be molded into the exact shape.

The kind of shape that has to be given to the product should be pre-determined before putting the metal in the stamping machines. The customer provides a sample or a diagram of the product that has to be created. Sometimes, the customer may not even know what the final product will look like. He will come with a vague idea of what purpose the product would serve. Most metal stamping producers have designing capabilities to assist the customer with what the actual design and requirements of the product should be.

Metal stamping machines are of many kinds. They can range between the simplest manual presses to highly computerized progressive die processors that involve complicated parts. Depending on the kind of machine, the features of the product can be changed according to the customer's requirements. The more advanced the machine, the process also becomes much faster and more efficient.

Metal stamping machines can perform a variety of functions like fine blanking, wireforming, deep drawing, fourslide and multislide stamping. Fine blanking involves the shearing of the material for producing finished parts without secondary operations.

Wireforming is the stamping of metal wire into different shapes such as springs, clips, rings and pins. Deep drawing is a cold forming process in which a flat blank of sheet metal is formed by the action of a punch forcing the metal into a die cavity. Four slide and multislide stamping is for horizontal die applications from multiple directions, done either successively or simultaneously.

There are a variety of metal stamping machines from the simplest manual presses to computerized progressive die processors that are highly advanced and involve complicated parts. Depending on the type of machine, the features of a product can be changed based on the customer’s requirements. The more advanced a metal stamping machine, the faster and more efficient the processes.

Metal stamping machine functions

A metal stamping machine can perform a variety of functions that includes fine blanking, wire forming, deep drawing, four-slide and multi-slide stamping.

Fine blanking – Shears the material to produce finished parts without secondary operations.

Wire forming – The process of stamping metal wire into different shapes such as rings, pins, clips and springs.

Deep drawing – A cold forming process using a flat, blank sheet of metal that is formed by punch forcing the metal into a die cavity.

Four-slide and multi-slide stamping – This is for horizontal die applications from multiple directions, done successively or simultaneously.

Most sheet metal stamping companies also offer supplementary services like designing, material sourcing, prototyping, short run manufacturing, upgrading or re-designing, assembly services and specialty packaging.

How to Plumb a Shower Drain

Plumbing a shower drain for your new home is a short and simple process. Though it requires attention to detail, you can install a shower drain like a professional with a bit of planning and some common construction tools.

Map your drain hole. To determine the location, set the floor pan for your shower into the frame you have built. Make sure you have the shower pan facing the right way, then use a pencil to mark the location of the drain on the frame beneath.

Take the shower pan out of the frame and cut a drain hole in it with your saber or reciprocating saw. The hole should be a bit wider than the drain opening in your shower pan, about 6 inches in diameter. If you are setting a shower directly onto a concrete floor, you will need to run the plumbing for the drain through a gap in the concrete and into the ground using a PVC ground joint adapter.

With the shower pan still out, insert the drain spud, the part of the drain that screws into the pan. Using the spud nut, thread the drain spud into the shower pan. A spud wrench is the best tool for threading spud nuts. Be gentle with the drain spud. Thread it until it feels snugly attached; do not overtighten it.

Set the drain pan. To complete installation of your drain, you will need to have already plumbed a P-trap, a type of plumbing fixture frequently used in sink, bathtub and shower drains. Depending on the length, you will probably also need a PVC riser 2 inches in diameter to bring the height up to reach your shower drain. According to Rick Peters in the "Home How-to Handbook: Plumbing," most shower manufacturers recommend that the drain pan be set level on wet plaster, mortar or non-expanding foam.

After your shower pan is set and leveled, use a rubber gasket to firmly seal the space between your PVC riser and the shower spud. The best way to tamp a gasket into place is to gently hammer it using a packing iron or flat piece of metal. You should not use lubrication to get the gasket into place. If you are using a plastic shower, you might need to cement your riser pipe right into the shower instead of inserting a gasket.

Set the shower drain guard in place over the shower drain. Some shower drains require that you screw or pop them in, while others simply rest over the drain hole.

If you cannot access the plumbing beneath the shower drain to form a tight seal, you may need to use a compression-type connector.If you cannot access the plumbing beneath the shower to form a tight seal, you may need to use a compression-type connector.

The Important Function of Metal Stamping Dies

Metal stamping dies are the devices used in metal stamping machines. Each metal stamping machine can have one or more than one dies depending on the kind of machine. Dies are the main components in metal stamping machines that do the actual casting, punching, cutting and shaping of the metal sheet.

The basic die operations are drawing, shearing and bending. In metal stamping, the metal sheets are placed in a die or a press tool which has a specially designed cavity that gives the preferred shape to the metal sheet.

The upper part of the die connects to the press slide while the lower component connects to the press bed. A specific component known as the punch pushes the metal sheet through the die, thus performing the actual shaping operation. The patterns on the dies can be used to emboss or give three-dimensional lettering on the final product.

Dies are placed in sheet metal panels either alone or as a series of presses in a press line. Metal stamping dies and presses can have different input variables on the bases of tonnage, press parallelism, shut height, nitrogen pressure in dies, counterbalance pressure and press speed. These variables can influence the quality of the stamping panel, particularly during die setup. The same stamping press can be reused by replacing one set of dies with another.

The placement of dies in a press is known as die setup. Die setup decides the shut height and binder force. The number of components produced in a die setup is known as a batch.

Sheet Metal is a flat shaped product made from metal that can vary in thickness between 0.015cm and 6.32cm. Very thin pieces would be considered foil/leaf pieces while thicker pieces are called plates.

The reason why sheet metal is widely used is because it can be easily changed in to a variety of shapes. Through a wide variety of processes sheet metal machinery and tools are used to do this.

Stretching

Sheet metal can be straightened by using a grip at either side of the sheet and stretching it. The sheet metal machinery and tools used to do this are able to pull the sheet metal beyond its elastic limit allowing it to come out flat. The affect of the stretching is that its temper will be slightly raised.

Stamping

This is a process that may involve one or more stamping stations to perform various actions on a metal sheet to create a final workpiece. As the metal sheet is passed through the work stations each one alters the shape by cutting, forming or drawing the piece. Each stamping station contributes to the final piece.

Cutting

There are a number of ways that Sheet metal can be cut, ranging from manually cutting the sheet using tin snips to using computer aided laser cutting. Tin snips can be extremely tricky - even frustrating to use, especially when the sheet curves. The use of computer controlled laser cutting allows for greater accuracy while at the same time reducing the amount of waste.

Laser cutting involves focusing a beam of laser light over the sheer metal heating and subsequently burning the metal. The edge of the sheet will be very smooth. Old Trumpf equipment laser cutters can be used to get a precision of around 0.01mm.

Bending

Bending can be carried out by sheet metal machinery and tools and is done to shape the sheet into various forms. A pressbrake is used to bend the metal into a shape that is determined by its die set.

Shearing

When the sheet metal is too big for use, then the sheet needs to be cut to size. This process is called shearing. This step needs to be carried out before any stamping can be started. Sheet metal machinery and tools 'shear' the sheet metal until the desired size has been achieved.

Deep Drawing

The deep drawing process involves sheet metal machinery and tools 'punching' blank sheet metal into a die set. It thus involves a transformation of the sheet metal into a desired shape.

There are many different kinds of dies such as single station dies, multiple station dies, compound dies, progressive dies and tandem press lines. Most dies are designed by the metal stamping companies who use advanced technologies like CAD to design them according to customer specifications. Another classification of dies is draw dies, trim dies and cam-pierce dies.

Metal Stamping Info provides detailed information about precision, custom, and sheet metal stamping, as well as metal stamping machines and metal stamping die.

Get Rid of a Shower Drain Smell

Sometimes drains and pipes just smell for no determinable reason. Other times, the smell is a result of a clogged shower drain, or stagnant water in the bottom of the drain. Besides dealing with the cause, you also need to get rid of the smell itself. After removing the drain trap, or clearing the clog you can begin taking steps to remove the smell from the drain.

Pour 1 gallon of boiling water slowly down the drain. This will flush the drain and loosen any growth or bacterial that may be causing the smell.

Sprinkle 1 cup of baking soda into the drain and allow it to sit for 30 minutes. Baking soda absorbs odors.

Add 3 cups of white vinegar slowly down the drain. You will hear the fizzing as it interacts with the baking soda. This process will kill bacteria and germs in the drain as well as cleaning sludge from the inside of the drain pipe.

Leave the vinegar and baking soda in the drain until you take a shower again. The longer it has to work in the drain area of the shower, the better it will take care of the smell. It will also help clear away the stuff that can cause future odors.

Repeat this process monthly to help keep your shower drain clean and smell free.

Is your shower drain leaking or missing. This instruction shows how easy the installation of a PVC shower drain is. Check to see what system is currently used in your plumbing, take measurements and head to your hardware store.

Buy pvc hardware of the correct size so that it will fit with current plumbing. Remove any cracked or broken pipe. If the current plumbing is black pipe then rubber adaptors are available.

Carefully drill a hole in the shower or tub so that the hole and current plumbing align. Smooth all rough edges so that no leaks occur.

Apply pvc prep(the purple primer) to all pvc parts that will be joined; wait 20 seconds then apply pvc cement to both current plumbing and new shower drain. Cement glue is not needed when connecting pvc to rubber or black pipe to rubber. Apply plumbers caulk to drain cap and shower or tub base. Install screws on drain cap or if drain only has retention tabs then press those. Check for water tightness after caulk and glue have dried.

How to Use Metal Stamping

Often found in hardware, craft, woodworking or jewelry making shops, metal stamping can be used for everything from industrial marking and stamping to property identification to adorning decorative materials like leather or metal jewelry.

With a basic set of metal alphabet stamps and a hammer, you can also create artistic bands or tags to use when designing home decor, gardening or even gift wrapping projects. Use the following steps to use metal stamps with ease.

Gather the materials you need to use metal stamps, including a set of steel stamps, a regular-sized hammer (smaller hammers designed for craft purposes like setting eyelets won't pack enough punch to create an impression with the metal stamps), a cushioning material (such as a self-healing cutting mat) to protect your work surface from scratches and something to stamp.

Consider creating imprints with the metal alphabet stamps on objects like aluminum plant tags (to identify seedlings in your garden, tack onto candles or use as gift tags), metal tags (to create pet, identification or gift tags) or paper tags with wide metal rims, for example.

Place the tag on the self-healing cutting mat atop a hard surface such as your garage's concrete floor. You don't want to run the risk of damaging a wood table or ceramic tile by hammering with the steel stamps on the fragile work surface. Tack small items down with a piece of double-stick tape to prevent the item from slipping as you work with the hand metal stamp.

Position the first metal alphabet stamp on the metal object where you'd like the letter to appear. Hold the stamp halfway down so your fingers don't get pinched below the stamp or the hammer.

Rap the back of the hand metal stamp firmly. Exert more pressure if you're trying to use metal stamps on more durable objects like heavy metal tags-items like aluminum plant tags will require little effort to make an impression with the steel stamps. If the letter isn't clearly defined, simply place the stamp back over the shape (it should fit into the partial letter easily) and hammer once again.

Add definition to your design once the entire word or message is engraved onto the metal with your steel stamps. Buff some metallic rub-ons, acrylic paint or even stamping ink onto the surface, letting the color get into the grooves made with the sheet metal stamping. Let dry a few seconds, then use a soft cloth to buff the excess paint or ink from the metal object, just leaving color inside the letters.