When the water starts creeping up the side of your toes when the shower is running, it's time to either call the plumber or take some action yourself. You might as well save yourself the time, embarrassment and money by attempting this simple remedy yourself--the same thing a plumber will do anyway. Read on to learn how to unstop a clogged shower drain.
Dry off and dress, then come back to this when it's convenient. First, scrape your hand or a sponge or clump of paper towel across the top of the shower drain grate to remove any hair that may be hanging in the drain. Continue scraping until you can't get anymore hair out.
Unscrew the two or more small sheet metal screws holding down the drain grate, being extremely careful to hold the screws when they're removed, and place them where they won't be pushed or tapped and roll down the drain.
Slowly and carefully lift the drain grate and lay upside down on a section of paper towel. Remove any debris and hair from both sides, careful not to allow any to drop down the drain. Scrape any soap or calcium residue from both sides of the grate using the putty knife.
Point the flashlight beam down the drain and inspect the sides of the drain pipe as far down as you can see. You will probably see residue and tangled hair clinging to the inside of the drain pipe, but if you don't, skip the next step.
Tear off a 2 foot strip of duct tape and insert it doubled into a sling down into the pipe with the sticky side up and toward the center. Make sure there are at least 4 to 5 inches of tape at each end outside the drain to stick to the shower floor so you don't risk losing the tape down the drain. Adjust the tape with one of the screwdrivers so that it covers as much of the pipe opening as possible. Then chisel and scrape the inside of the pipe and opening to remove any residue, pulling up the tape whenever a large piece of the residue falls onto the tape. Pull hair out using the pliers.
Leaving the grate off, remove everything from the inside of the shower, then let the shower run until it fills up the pipe and begins to collect in the bottom of the shower. Use warm water and let if collect until there is an inch or more of water in the shower, then turn it off.
Immediately place the plumber's friend over the drain opening and position the lips of the rubber head around the drain opening so that suction can be acquired. Plunge the tool gently and repeatedly, paying attention that suction occurs.
Check under the plunger continually for a clog. Normally there will be a clump of matter somewhere in the drain line causing the clog. You want to locate this and get it out of the drain as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Continue until you get the clog, then continue longer to remove any remaining parts of the clog. The pressure from the plunger will either raise the clog to the drain opening or force it out the drain pipe into the sewer or septic tank.
Be prepared to work the plunger for a half hour or more--hopefully it will take only a few minutes.Do not apply liquid or powder drain cleaners in the shower drain. They are harmful to pipes, and most likely your clog is not grease-based.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
How to Learn Metal Stamping
You can learn to metal stamping designs and letters onto metal plates and charms to make a variety of jewelry and craft projects.
Online tutorials and local classes illustrate and teach metal stamping techniques and, with practice, you can learn to create perfectly stamped verses, words or pictures. You could also learn to stamp impressions onto thin metal sheeting for a raised or embossed design that you can fill with color for added impact.
Watch online video tutorials or read and follow illustrated online articles to learn metal stamping techniques. You can find metal charms to make stamped jewelry pieces at your local craft store or at online jewelry suppliers. The process involves placing your metal charm or plate onto a bench block before you begin stamping. A bench block is a small block of steel with a smooth surface designed to support your metal as you stamp it. Bench blocks are used for other wire and metal crafts and you can easily find one at your local hardware or craft store.
Search for local metal artists offering metal stamping classes. Attend a class and try the tools and techniques before you purchase your own supplies. The stamping process is simple and the supplies are not expensive, but you should try your hand at stamping before you make an investment. Stamps come in a variety of letter sizes and styles or designs that you can apply to a metal plate. Local craft stores like Michael's, Hobby Lobby or AC Moore may also offer metal stamping classes.
Purchase a letter stamp set, inexpensive metal flashing and a bench block to practice and learn metal stamping on your own. Your initial investment will likely be less than $30 and you can practice holding your stamp straight and determine how much pressure you will need to exert in order to create a stamp.
A regular 16-ounce household hammer is the only other tool you need. One firm strike onto the top of your stamp should result in an adequate indentation. Practice spelling out words so you can learn the best ways to keep you letters in line, whether by drawing an erasable line or placing a piece of tape to act as a guide.
Enhance your sheet metal stamping designs with fine-tipped paint pens or with compounds that alter the color of the metal.Be careful not to hit your fingers as you strike the stamps.
Online tutorials and local classes illustrate and teach metal stamping techniques and, with practice, you can learn to create perfectly stamped verses, words or pictures. You could also learn to stamp impressions onto thin metal sheeting for a raised or embossed design that you can fill with color for added impact.
Watch online video tutorials or read and follow illustrated online articles to learn metal stamping techniques. You can find metal charms to make stamped jewelry pieces at your local craft store or at online jewelry suppliers. The process involves placing your metal charm or plate onto a bench block before you begin stamping. A bench block is a small block of steel with a smooth surface designed to support your metal as you stamp it. Bench blocks are used for other wire and metal crafts and you can easily find one at your local hardware or craft store.
Search for local metal artists offering metal stamping classes. Attend a class and try the tools and techniques before you purchase your own supplies. The stamping process is simple and the supplies are not expensive, but you should try your hand at stamping before you make an investment. Stamps come in a variety of letter sizes and styles or designs that you can apply to a metal plate. Local craft stores like Michael's, Hobby Lobby or AC Moore may also offer metal stamping classes.
Purchase a letter stamp set, inexpensive metal flashing and a bench block to practice and learn metal stamping on your own. Your initial investment will likely be less than $30 and you can practice holding your stamp straight and determine how much pressure you will need to exert in order to create a stamp.
A regular 16-ounce household hammer is the only other tool you need. One firm strike onto the top of your stamp should result in an adequate indentation. Practice spelling out words so you can learn the best ways to keep you letters in line, whether by drawing an erasable line or placing a piece of tape to act as a guide.
Enhance your sheet metal stamping designs with fine-tipped paint pens or with compounds that alter the color of the metal.Be careful not to hit your fingers as you strike the stamps.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
How to Clean Shower Drain Weep Holes
When weep holes in the shower drain become blocked or clogged a disaster may be in the making. Weep holes provide a valuable service in draining away underfloor moisture that has seeped through grouting and corners.
If water penetrates through the tile grout and joints, the weep holes help it to find its way into the drainage system. If the weep holes are blocked, the water builds up and is forced into the walls and flooring in a two-story home, you may have damage to the first-floor ceiling.
At the bottom of the pan there are three weep holes in the metal drain. These can be accidentally plugged up during instillation, or caused by a build up of lime. Here is how to unblock lime scale and widen these holes if you must refit a new shower base.
Tools and Equipment Needed
1.Thin piece of wire or straightened paperclip
2.Screwdriver
Clean the Weep Holes
You may be lucky enough to have a simple lime build-up block. Find the weep holes by unscrewing the plug hole/top part of the drain hole. Look inside and you will see small holes around the outside of the main pipe. Stick a piece of thin wire through the holes if you see a white, crusty build-up. If your weep holes are subject to blocking with lime scale, they will have to be cleaned regularly to avoid water building up and damaging the floor.
If the Weep Holes are Blocked by Mortar:
Unfortunately, if the weep holes have been blocked by mortar or tile grout, you will have to pull up the entire shower base and remake it.
Step 1: Remove the Shower Base
Pull up the tiles and shower base, exposing the sub floor. Remake the shower base, remembering to properly install the new shower base over a pre-sloped floor.
Step 2: Cement the Floor
Install the new floor mortar while keeping the weep holes open with crushed tile or small pebbles. If you are putting in a tar pan, make sure you place a large nail in each weep hole to avoid the holes being blocked with tar. The nails should still be in the holes after the hot mopper leaves. Wiggle the nails as you remove them so the the holes remain fully open.
Step 3: Widen the Weep Holes
Before you lay the mortar bed, enlarge the holes with a drill. Take a drill with a ?-inch mortar bit. Hold it sideways as close to the tar pan as possible and aim for the tiny existing weep holes in the drain. Throw the bit away after enlarging the holes. Be careful with this step as it is easy to damage the drain pipe.
Step 4: Tile the Floor
Stack a good amount of gravel or crushed tile around the weep holes. Cut out a donut hole of brown paper to cover the gravel to protect the gravel from tile grout.
When installing your shower drain base, make sure to pile pebble-sized gravel around the drain to keep the weep holes open while cementing.
If water penetrates through the tile grout and joints, the weep holes help it to find its way into the drainage system. If the weep holes are blocked, the water builds up and is forced into the walls and flooring in a two-story home, you may have damage to the first-floor ceiling.
At the bottom of the pan there are three weep holes in the metal drain. These can be accidentally plugged up during instillation, or caused by a build up of lime. Here is how to unblock lime scale and widen these holes if you must refit a new shower base.
Tools and Equipment Needed
1.Thin piece of wire or straightened paperclip
2.Screwdriver
Clean the Weep Holes
You may be lucky enough to have a simple lime build-up block. Find the weep holes by unscrewing the plug hole/top part of the drain hole. Look inside and you will see small holes around the outside of the main pipe. Stick a piece of thin wire through the holes if you see a white, crusty build-up. If your weep holes are subject to blocking with lime scale, they will have to be cleaned regularly to avoid water building up and damaging the floor.
If the Weep Holes are Blocked by Mortar:
Unfortunately, if the weep holes have been blocked by mortar or tile grout, you will have to pull up the entire shower base and remake it.
Step 1: Remove the Shower Base
Pull up the tiles and shower base, exposing the sub floor. Remake the shower base, remembering to properly install the new shower base over a pre-sloped floor.
Step 2: Cement the Floor
Install the new floor mortar while keeping the weep holes open with crushed tile or small pebbles. If you are putting in a tar pan, make sure you place a large nail in each weep hole to avoid the holes being blocked with tar. The nails should still be in the holes after the hot mopper leaves. Wiggle the nails as you remove them so the the holes remain fully open.
Step 3: Widen the Weep Holes
Before you lay the mortar bed, enlarge the holes with a drill. Take a drill with a ?-inch mortar bit. Hold it sideways as close to the tar pan as possible and aim for the tiny existing weep holes in the drain. Throw the bit away after enlarging the holes. Be careful with this step as it is easy to damage the drain pipe.
Step 4: Tile the Floor
Stack a good amount of gravel or crushed tile around the weep holes. Cut out a donut hole of brown paper to cover the gravel to protect the gravel from tile grout.
When installing your shower drain base, make sure to pile pebble-sized gravel around the drain to keep the weep holes open while cementing.
Friday, April 23, 2010
How to Clean a Shower Drain
There's nothing worse than turning on the shower and having a plugged up drain. Hair and soap scum are two of the biggest culprits that clog shower drains. How can you clean a shower drain and keep it from getting clogged? Find simple tips that are cheap and easy, to unclog any shower drain, here!
Every time you shower, you should remove any hair and soap pieces that accumulate on the drain cover in your shower. This will help keep the amount of material that goes into the drain itself to a minimum.
When your tub or shower stall is dry, pour 1/2 a cup of baking soda down into the drain itself. Pour it slowly so that it goes into the drain opening instead of accumulating on the top of the drain cover.
Next pour 2 cups of plain, white vinegar down your drain. The combination of the vinegar and baking soda will cause a harmless chemical reaction that will loosen materials that are stuck in your drain, causing them to move freely down your pipes.
After the baking soda and vinegar mixture has stopped foaming, run cold water down your drain for 5 minutes.
Repeat the baking soda and vinegar combination every week to keep your shower drain in tip-top, unclogged condition.
Baking soda and vinegar can be used in all of your drains to help keep them running free and clear!
It's hard to get clean if your shower head is spewing nastiness at you. Remove your shower head from the wall. Fill a bowl with straight vinegar and let the shower head soak in it for a few hours. Leave overnight if it's especially bad. Then scrub the holes with a toothbrush. If the holes are still clogged or green, use a toothpick or pin to clean them out. Rinse well and put the shower head back where it belongs.
Clean out the drain. This is quite possibly the worst part of the process, especially if you have long hair. Grab a garbage can or a plastic bag. Then unscrew the cap on your drain or just reach in, depending on the style of your drain. Using a large crochet hook or clip clothespin or (if you must) your fingers, yank the hair out and quickly throw it away. Yuck!
Keep pulling the hair out until the shower drain is clear. Better yet buy a Zip-It drain cleaning tool. Zip-It is a long plastic strip with teeth that get hairs stuck deep in the drain out. You may want to wear rubber gloves for this part, particularly if you share the shower with other people. There are just some hairs you don't want to touch!
Every time you shower, you should remove any hair and soap pieces that accumulate on the drain cover in your shower. This will help keep the amount of material that goes into the drain itself to a minimum.
When your tub or shower stall is dry, pour 1/2 a cup of baking soda down into the drain itself. Pour it slowly so that it goes into the drain opening instead of accumulating on the top of the drain cover.
Next pour 2 cups of plain, white vinegar down your drain. The combination of the vinegar and baking soda will cause a harmless chemical reaction that will loosen materials that are stuck in your drain, causing them to move freely down your pipes.
After the baking soda and vinegar mixture has stopped foaming, run cold water down your drain for 5 minutes.
Repeat the baking soda and vinegar combination every week to keep your shower drain in tip-top, unclogged condition.
Baking soda and vinegar can be used in all of your drains to help keep them running free and clear!
It's hard to get clean if your shower head is spewing nastiness at you. Remove your shower head from the wall. Fill a bowl with straight vinegar and let the shower head soak in it for a few hours. Leave overnight if it's especially bad. Then scrub the holes with a toothbrush. If the holes are still clogged or green, use a toothpick or pin to clean them out. Rinse well and put the shower head back where it belongs.
Clean out the drain. This is quite possibly the worst part of the process, especially if you have long hair. Grab a garbage can or a plastic bag. Then unscrew the cap on your drain or just reach in, depending on the style of your drain. Using a large crochet hook or clip clothespin or (if you must) your fingers, yank the hair out and quickly throw it away. Yuck!
Keep pulling the hair out until the shower drain is clear. Better yet buy a Zip-It drain cleaning tool. Zip-It is a long plastic strip with teeth that get hairs stuck deep in the drain out. You may want to wear rubber gloves for this part, particularly if you share the shower with other people. There are just some hairs you don't want to touch!
Thursday, April 22, 2010
How to Create a Modern-Style Sheet Metal Stamping Fence
Add an architectural feature to your backyard with a modern-inspired fence made of corrugated sheet metal stamping and galvanized conduit.
Step 1: Determine Post Placement and Dig Holes
Plan how large of a fence you need and decide how many fence sections will be needed, these can be any width or height you want. Use a post-hole digger or an auger to dig holes for the 4x4 fence posts. A fence section will be created to fit between each pair of 4x4 posts.
Step 2: Create Corrugated Metal Sections
Create the framework for each section from 2x4s, making sure to cut a groove with a router lengthwise on the inside of each board for the sheet metal to slide into. Screw the bottom and two side 2x4s together forming a “U” shape, then slide the sheet metal down into the framework and screw on the top 2x4 which will lock the metal in place.
Step 3: Create Galvanized Conduit Sections
Create the other half of the fence sections using galvanized conduit. Instead of creating a routered groove in the framework like the previous sections, figure out how many evenly spaced conduits you want top to bottom. Using a drill with an appropriately-sized spade bit, drill holes on the two side 2x4s to hold the conduit in place when the framework is together. Then simply screw together the framework, making sure to slide the conduit into place before the second side is installed.
Step 4: Install Fence Sections
Install the fence sections between the 4x4 posts. You can create any pattern you wish such as alternating sheet metal and conduit sections.
The sheet-metal-polishing tool uses inflatable rubber wheels and abrasive pads to produce a shine on stainless steel. Different wheel attachments give this tool its versatility. The right wheels can give the sheet-metal polisher other functions as well.
Flap wheel sanders are attached to the tool to sand or remove paint from surfaces. To use a flap wheel sander with a sheet-metal-polishing tool, move the machine back and forth over the surface to be sanded. Don't apply much pressure: doing so might damage the surface.
The inflatable contour wheel is a powerful attachment used to remove rust. Inflate the wheel to make it convex for working on flat surfaces; deflate it to make it concave for getting into curves and crevices. To use it, work the machine back and forth, and don't apply a lot of pressure.
To polish a cylindrical piece of metal stamping, loop a belt drive around the surface to be polished and around a rubber roller inside the polishing tool. When turned on, the polishing tool rotates the belt. Slowly move the tool up and down to polish the metal.
Step 1: Determine Post Placement and Dig Holes
Plan how large of a fence you need and decide how many fence sections will be needed, these can be any width or height you want. Use a post-hole digger or an auger to dig holes for the 4x4 fence posts. A fence section will be created to fit between each pair of 4x4 posts.
Step 2: Create Corrugated Metal Sections
Create the framework for each section from 2x4s, making sure to cut a groove with a router lengthwise on the inside of each board for the sheet metal to slide into. Screw the bottom and two side 2x4s together forming a “U” shape, then slide the sheet metal down into the framework and screw on the top 2x4 which will lock the metal in place.
Step 3: Create Galvanized Conduit Sections
Create the other half of the fence sections using galvanized conduit. Instead of creating a routered groove in the framework like the previous sections, figure out how many evenly spaced conduits you want top to bottom. Using a drill with an appropriately-sized spade bit, drill holes on the two side 2x4s to hold the conduit in place when the framework is together. Then simply screw together the framework, making sure to slide the conduit into place before the second side is installed.
Step 4: Install Fence Sections
Install the fence sections between the 4x4 posts. You can create any pattern you wish such as alternating sheet metal and conduit sections.
The sheet-metal-polishing tool uses inflatable rubber wheels and abrasive pads to produce a shine on stainless steel. Different wheel attachments give this tool its versatility. The right wheels can give the sheet-metal polisher other functions as well.
Flap wheel sanders are attached to the tool to sand or remove paint from surfaces. To use a flap wheel sander with a sheet-metal-polishing tool, move the machine back and forth over the surface to be sanded. Don't apply much pressure: doing so might damage the surface.
The inflatable contour wheel is a powerful attachment used to remove rust. Inflate the wheel to make it convex for working on flat surfaces; deflate it to make it concave for getting into curves and crevices. To use it, work the machine back and forth, and don't apply a lot of pressure.
To polish a cylindrical piece of metal stamping, loop a belt drive around the surface to be polished and around a rubber roller inside the polishing tool. When turned on, the polishing tool rotates the belt. Slowly move the tool up and down to polish the metal.
Shower Drain Rough-In
Shower drain can get clogged with hair and other gunk relatively easily. Luckily, eHow’s experts can help make the removal process equally easy. With some basic background knowledge and tips for shower maintenance and drain cleaning, you’ll be prepped for any shower drain DIY projects that come your way.
Host Amy Matthews demonstrates how to turn a pipe in a gravel bed into a usable shower drain.
Step 1: Remove the Rock Fill
Note: Building codes vary regarding shower drain requirements. Make sure to check local codes before getting started.
Remove the fill rock from the hole and use a PVC saw to cut the cap from the PVC stub installed by the plumber.
The rough-in already included a P-trap, so Amy just needed to create a simple drain. Use a PVC saw to cut the appropriate lengths of PVC pipe and dry-fit the parts; the final assembly should bring the drain line to the center of the floor opening, with the bottom of the drain flange level with the existing concrete floor.
Step 2: Assemble PVC Joints
Use a marker to draw lines across the PVC joints; these marks will make it easier to line up the parts quickly and easily during gluing.
Take apart the assembly and apply PVC cleaner to the appropriate pipe surfaces.
Apply PVC cement to the joints and assemble, lining up the reference marks. Work on one joint at a time, holding the pieces together for several moments after gluing to keep the chemical reaction from forcing them apart.
Step 3: Refill the Hole
Refill the hole with rock to support the new plumbing. Check to make sure the drain stays level.
Use a drill with a paddle bit to mix a bucket of quick-setting concrete to fill the remainder of the space.
Step 4: Spread the Concrete
Cover the drain with painter's tape to protect it, then pour concrete into the hole. Use a trowel to spread the concrete, tamping it and smoothing it over the surface.
Allow the concrete to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions before creating the concrete shower drain base. Amy and Andy used a concrete mix that dries in 30 minutes.
Host Amy Matthews demonstrates how to turn a pipe in a gravel bed into a usable shower drain.
Step 1: Remove the Rock Fill
Note: Building codes vary regarding shower drain requirements. Make sure to check local codes before getting started.
Remove the fill rock from the hole and use a PVC saw to cut the cap from the PVC stub installed by the plumber.
The rough-in already included a P-trap, so Amy just needed to create a simple drain. Use a PVC saw to cut the appropriate lengths of PVC pipe and dry-fit the parts; the final assembly should bring the drain line to the center of the floor opening, with the bottom of the drain flange level with the existing concrete floor.
Step 2: Assemble PVC Joints
Use a marker to draw lines across the PVC joints; these marks will make it easier to line up the parts quickly and easily during gluing.
Take apart the assembly and apply PVC cleaner to the appropriate pipe surfaces.
Apply PVC cement to the joints and assemble, lining up the reference marks. Work on one joint at a time, holding the pieces together for several moments after gluing to keep the chemical reaction from forcing them apart.
Step 3: Refill the Hole
Refill the hole with rock to support the new plumbing. Check to make sure the drain stays level.
Use a drill with a paddle bit to mix a bucket of quick-setting concrete to fill the remainder of the space.
Step 4: Spread the Concrete
Cover the drain with painter's tape to protect it, then pour concrete into the hole. Use a trowel to spread the concrete, tamping it and smoothing it over the surface.
Allow the concrete to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions before creating the concrete shower drain base. Amy and Andy used a concrete mix that dries in 30 minutes.
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